History
Veronese legend dates the dish to 489 AD, after the Battle of Verona between Theodoric the Ostrogoth and Odoacer's Romans, when victorious soldiers preserved fallen horses in red wine and spices on the plain outside the walls to prevent spoilage. The wine-marinated braising tradition is the Ostrogothic culinary legacy that survives in modern Veronese kitchens, with horse-meat consumption still legal in Italy. Osteria al Duca, set in the medieval Casa dei Montecchi, is the reference room.
Make it at home
Yield 6Hands-on 45 minTotal 28 hrDifficulty Advanced
Ingredients
- 1.2 kg horse meat (chuck or shoulder), cubed (beef chuck works as substitute)
- 1 bottle (750ml) Valpolicella Classico Superiore
- 2 large white onions, sliced
- 2 carrots, sliced
- 1 celery stalk, sliced
- 4 garlic cloves, crushed
- 4 whole cloves
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 2 bay leaves
- 4 juniper berries
- 60g unsalted butter
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- 2 tablespoons tomato paste
- Salt and black pepper
- Polenta to serve (white or yellow)
Method
- Combine the meat, onions, carrots, celery, garlic, cloves, cinnamon, bay leaves and juniper in a large bowl. Pour over the wine to cover. Marinate 24 hours in the fridge, turning occasionally.
- Drain the meat and vegetables, reserving the marinade. Pat the meat dry with paper towels.
- Heat the butter and olive oil in a heavy Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown the meat in batches, 5 to 7 minutes per batch, transferring to a plate.
- Lower the heat, add the strained vegetables and aromatics from the marinade, and cook 8 to 10 minutes until softened.
- Stir in the tomato paste and cook 2 minutes until rust-coloured.
- Return the meat and any juices to the pot. Pour in the reserved marinade plus enough water or beef broth to cover the meat by 2 cm.
- Bring to a simmer, cover and braise in a 150C oven (or low stovetop heat) for 3.5 to 4 hours until the meat falls apart with a fork.
- Remove the meat, strain the sauce into a clean pot, and reduce 10 minutes to thicken. Return the meat and rest 10 minutes.
- Serve over warm soft polenta with the sauce ladled over.
Tip from the editors. If horse meat is unavailable, use beef chuck or shoulder; the 24-hour marinade is the make-or-break step, not the meat choice.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.