Pasteis de Belem ★ 4.8
Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon's Belem: the original pastel de nata, made by hand from a Jeronimos-monastery recipe held in secret since 1837.
Worth the queue: Pastel de Belem, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar
Lisbon's defining sweet: a flaky puff-pastry shell holding a thin custard of egg yolk, milk and sugar, blistered black on top under high heat.
Where to eat it: 5 restaurants across 1 city.
Perfected at the Jeronimos monastery in Belem long before the 1834 dissolution of religious orders, the custard tart recipe was sold to a sugar refinery next door after that closure. Pasteis de Belem opened in 1837 and has guarded the original formula behind a locked door for the four generations since. Manteigaria reopened the conversation in 2014 with a modern, lighter version baked every twenty minutes.
Common allergens: Gluten, Eggs, Dairy
Tip from the editors. Your home oven probably tops out at 250C. Get it as hot as it goes and place the tray near the top, the blistered top matters more than the timer.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Pasteis de Belem in Lisbon's Belem: the original pastel de nata, made by hand from a Jeronimos-monastery recipe held in secret since 1837.
Worth the queue: Pastel de Belem, dusted with cinnamon and icing sugar
Manteigaria's Chiado flagship in Lisbon: an Art Nouveau corner on Rua do Loreto where pastel de nata trays land hot every twenty minutes, 1.50 euros.
Worth the queue: Pastel de nata at 1.50 euros, eaten at the counter
Manteigaria's Mercado da Ribeira stall in Lisbon: the Time Out Market pastel-de-nata window, baked every twenty minutes, 1.50 euros at the counter.
Worth the queue: Pastel de nata, eaten standing at the counter
Manteigaria Belem in Lisbon: the modern pastel-de-nata contender's Rua de Belem outpost a short walk from Pasteis de Belem, for the side-by-side tasting.
Worth the queue: Pastel de nata, hot from the oven
Confeitaria Nacional on Lisbon's Praca da Figueira: the city's oldest patisserie, in continuous operation since 1829, six generations of one family.
Worth the queue: Bolo Rei, the Christmas crown loaf introduced here in 1875
More cities are in research. Want pastel de nata covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.