History

Laal maas means red meat, and its colour comes from Mathania chillies. Wikipedia reports a chef's account that it was traditionally made with wild game such as boar or deer, the chillies covering the gamey smell, and that tender mutton is used today; the gravy is eaten with wheat chapatis in summer and bajra in winter. In Jaipur, Curly Tales says Handi cooks it over a clay oven, and Time Out pairs Spice Court's with butter naan.

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Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4Hands-on 45 minTotal 3 hr 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 800g bone-in mutton or lamb shoulder, in large pieces
  • 200g plain yoghurt
  • 8 garlic cloves, crushed, and 1 tablespoon ginger paste
  • 10 dried Kashmiri chillies, soaked in warm water for 20 minutes and blended to a paste
  • 4 tablespoons ghee or mustard oil
  • 4 cloves, 4 green cardamom pods, 1 cinnamon stick and 1 bay leaf
  • 3 onions, thinly sliced
  • 1 tablespoon coriander powder and 1 teaspoon cumin powder
  • 500ml water
  • Salt to taste

Method

  1. Mix the mutton with the yoghurt, half the garlic, the ginger and salt, and marinate for 2 hours.
  2. Heat the ghee, add the whole spices, then the onions, and cook for 12 minutes until golden brown.
  3. Add the marinated meat and the remaining garlic and cook over a high heat for 10 minutes, stirring.
  4. Stir in the chilli paste, coriander and cumin and cook for 5 minutes, then add the water.
  5. Cover and simmer gently for 1 hour 15 minutes until the meat is tender and red oil floats on the gravy. Adjust the salt.
  6. Serve with bajra roti, wheat chapatis or naan.

Tip from the editors. Kashmiri chillies give the red without the heat of Mathania; add hot chilli powder by the half-teaspoon if you want fire.

Where to eat laal maas

Laal maas in Jaipur

Handi Restaurant ★ 3.9

$$ RajasthaniMi Road

Handi Restaurant on MI Road in Jaipur, opposite the GPO, cooks laal maas and dal baati churma in a dhaba-style room that has a rooftop dining area.

OrderThe laal maas, and the dal baati churma that Travel + Leisure Asia calls excellent.

TipThe restaurant is in Maya Mansion opposite the GPO and has run since the 1980s, according to Travel + Leisure Asia.

Spice Court ★ 4.4

$$ RajasthaniCivil Lines

Spice Court serves Rajasthani food in a 1930s colonial mansion on Jacob Road in Jaipur, best known for keema baati, laal maas and junglee maas.

OrderKeema baati with jhol, then laal maas with butter naan; vegetarians can order papad mangodi sabzi.

TipDzurt, a patisserie by Chef Tejasvi Chandela, shares the premises, so finish with its ghewar entremet.

Once Upon A Time At The Bagh ★ 4.2

$$$ North IndianOuter Jaipur

Once Upon A Time At The Bagh, a garden restaurant in Jaipur, serves Indian and Mughlai dishes beside fountains, with the Aravalli hills in view.

OrderThe mutton chapli kebab and the laal maans, which the kitchen does best.

TipAt weekends you can probably catch a live Sufi band; the indoor room is blue and white and called the Neela Palace.

Niros ★ 3.9

$$ IndianMi Road

Niros, a long-running restaurant on Mirza Ismail Road in Jaipur, serves Indian, Chinese and continental dishes, with laal maas and mutton cutlets.

OrderThe laal maas with butter naan, and the mutton cutlets to start.

TipClosed between 16:00 and 18:00 each day; Curly Tales puts a meal at about ₹2,000 for two and dates the restaurant to 1949.

The Forresta Kitchen & Bar ★ 3.9

$$ North IndianBani Park

The Forresta Kitchen & Bar, an open-air restaurant with lush gardens in Bani Park, Jaipur, serves dahi ke kebab and laal maas with rumali roti.

OrderThe dahi ke kebab, then the laal maas with rumali roti.

TipCondé Nast Traveller India puts a meal at about ₹2,500 for two without alcohol; the open-air tables suit an evening visit.

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