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Mumbai: Street Food and Night Markets Tour
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Mutton cooked in yoghurt, garlic and dried red Mathania chillies until the gravy turns deep red, eaten in Jaipur with bajra roti, naan or rumali roti.
Where to eat it: 5 restaurants across 1 city.
Laal maas means red meat, and its colour comes from Mathania chillies. Wikipedia reports a chef's account that it was traditionally made with wild game such as boar or deer, the chillies covering the gamey smell, and that tender mutton is used today; the gravy is eaten with wheat chapatis in summer and bajra in winter. In Jaipur, Curly Tales says Handi cooks it over a clay oven, and Time Out pairs Spice Court's with butter naan.
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Common allergens: Dairy
Tip from the editors. Kashmiri chillies give the red without the heat of Mathania; add hot chilli powder by the half-teaspoon if you want fire.
Handi Restaurant on MI Road in Jaipur, opposite the GPO, cooks laal maas and dal baati churma in a dhaba-style room that has a rooftop dining area.
OrderThe laal maas, and the dal baati churma that Travel + Leisure Asia calls excellent.
TipThe restaurant is in Maya Mansion opposite the GPO and has run since the 1980s, according to Travel + Leisure Asia.
Spice Court serves Rajasthani food in a 1930s colonial mansion on Jacob Road in Jaipur, best known for keema baati, laal maas and junglee maas.
OrderKeema baati with jhol, then laal maas with butter naan; vegetarians can order papad mangodi sabzi.
TipDzurt, a patisserie by Chef Tejasvi Chandela, shares the premises, so finish with its ghewar entremet.
Once Upon A Time At The Bagh, a garden restaurant in Jaipur, serves Indian and Mughlai dishes beside fountains, with the Aravalli hills in view.
OrderThe mutton chapli kebab and the laal maans, which the kitchen does best.
TipAt weekends you can probably catch a live Sufi band; the indoor room is blue and white and called the Neela Palace.
Niros, a long-running restaurant on Mirza Ismail Road in Jaipur, serves Indian, Chinese and continental dishes, with laal maas and mutton cutlets.
OrderThe laal maas with butter naan, and the mutton cutlets to start.
TipClosed between 16:00 and 18:00 each day; Curly Tales puts a meal at about ₹2,000 for two and dates the restaurant to 1949.
The Forresta Kitchen & Bar, an open-air restaurant with lush gardens in Bani Park, Jaipur, serves dahi ke kebab and laal maas with rumali roti.
OrderThe dahi ke kebab, then the laal maas with rumali roti.
TipCondé Nast Traveller India puts a meal at about ₹2,500 for two without alcohol; the open-air tables suit an evening visit.
More cities are in research. Want laal maas covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.