Nishiki Market ★ 4.7
The kitchen of Kyoto: four covered blocks east-west on Nishikikoji-dori, 130 stalls of pickles, tofu, tea, fish, and the wagashi the city's tea houses use.
History
Pickled vegetables (tsukemono) have anchored Kyoto's plate for over 1,000 years, born of the city's inland location and the need to preserve summer Kyo-yasai for winter. Three regional specialties define the form: shibazuke from Ohara village, salted aubergine with red shiso; senmaizuke, paper-thin Shogoin turnip pressed with kombu and rice vinegar; and suguki, a slow-fermented turnip from Kamigamo. All three are sold at Nishiki Market and at Tsuchinoko-mura in Ohara, alongside dozens of seasonal variants.
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 500g Shogoin (large round) turnip, peeled and very thinly sliced (1mm) on a mandoline
- 10g sea salt for the initial draw
- 1 strip kombu kelp, soaked in 100ml rice vinegar
- 30g sugar, 5ml soy sauce
- 1 dried red chilli, sliced
- A weighted lid or pickling press
Method
- Salt the turnip slices and toss to coat; rest for 30 minutes in a colander to draw out water.
- Squeeze each slice gently between cloths to remove as much water as possible.
- Layer the turnip slices in a pickle press with the soaked kombu strips between layers, sprinkling sugar and a few chilli rings.
- Pour the kombu-vinegar liquid over the layers; close the press with a weight on top.
- Refrigerate for at least 3 days; the senmaizuke is ready when the turnip is translucent and the broth has turned pale yellow.
- Serve as a small plate alongside rice and miso soup; slice the kombu and serve alongside.
Tip from the editors. The mandoline cut is the entire dish. If your slices are thicker than 1.5mm, the pickle is mediocre; if thinner than 0.5mm, they tear.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Where to eat kyoto tsukemono pickles
Kyoto Tsukemono Pickles in Kyoto
Nishiki Market Pickle Stalls ★ 4.3
Lunch in Kyoto for under 1,000 yen: walk Nishiki Market east to west grazing on tako-tamago skewers, yuba sticks, tsukemono samples and warabi-mochi cups.
Try: Tsukemono samples and snacks
Daimaru Kyoto Depachika ★ 4.3
Daimaru Kyoto's depachika basement on Shijo-dori, 70-plus counters of wagashi, bento, sashimi and sake. The downtown alternative to JR Kyoto Isetan.
More cities are in research. Want kyoto tsukemono pickles covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.