Kyoto Tsukemono Pickles
Photo: Wikimedia Commons · CC BY 2.0

History

Pickled vegetables (tsukemono) have anchored Kyoto's plate for over 1,000 years, born of the city's inland location and the need to preserve summer Kyo-yasai for winter. Three regional specialties define the form: shibazuke from Ohara village, salted aubergine with red shiso; senmaizuke, paper-thin Shogoin turnip pressed with kombu and rice vinegar; and suguki, a slow-fermented turnip from Kamigamo. All three are sold at Nishiki Market and at Tsuchinoko-mura in Ohara, alongside dozens of seasonal variants.

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Make it at home

Yield 500Hands-on 30 minTotal PT3DDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 500g Shogoin (large round) turnip, peeled and very thinly sliced (1mm) on a mandoline
  • 10g sea salt for the initial draw
  • 1 strip kombu kelp, soaked in 100ml rice vinegar
  • 30g sugar, 5ml soy sauce
  • 1 dried red chilli, sliced
  • A weighted lid or pickling press

Method

  1. Salt the turnip slices and toss to coat; rest for 30 minutes in a colander to draw out water.
  2. Squeeze each slice gently between cloths to remove as much water as possible.
  3. Layer the turnip slices in a pickle press with the soaked kombu strips between layers, sprinkling sugar and a few chilli rings.
  4. Pour the kombu-vinegar liquid over the layers; close the press with a weight on top.
  5. Refrigerate for at least 3 days; the senmaizuke is ready when the turnip is translucent and the broth has turned pale yellow.
  6. Serve as a small plate alongside rice and miso soup; slice the kombu and serve alongside.

Tip from the editors. The mandoline cut is the entire dish. If your slices are thicker than 1.5mm, the pickle is mediocre; if thinner than 0.5mm, they tear.

Where to eat kyoto tsukemono pickles

Kyoto Tsukemono Pickles in Kyoto

Nishiki Market ★ 4.7

¥ MarketNishiki Market

The kitchen of Kyoto: four covered blocks east-west on Nishikikoji-dori, 130 stalls of pickles, tofu, tea, fish, and the wagashi the city's tea houses use.

Directions

Nishiki Market Pickle Stalls ★ 4.3

¥ Street foodNishiki Market

Lunch in Kyoto for under 1,000 yen: walk Nishiki Market east to west grazing on tako-tamago skewers, yuba sticks, tsukemono samples and warabi-mochi cups.

TryTsukemono samples and snacks

Directions

Daimaru Kyoto Depachika ★ 4.3

¥ MarketKarasuma Kawaramachi

Daimaru Kyoto's depachika basement on Shijo-dori, 70-plus counters of wagashi, bento, sashimi and sake. The downtown alternative to JR Kyoto Isetan.

Directions

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