History

Baltic halibut has anchored the Pomeranian luxury-fish trade since medieval times, when the Gdańsk fish guild held a monopoly on the inland trade. The Hanseatic merchants shipped salt-cured halibut across northern Europe. Zafishowani made it the room's argument when it opened on Tokarska; Targ Rybny Fishmarkt sources from the same Hel Peninsula boats. Season runs strongest May to September, when the larger flatfish move closer to shore.

Common allergens: Fish, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 25 minTotal 35 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 4 skin-on halibut steaks, 180 to 200g each, pin-boned
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tbsp plain flour, seasoned
  • 30ml neutral oil
  • 120g unsalted butter
  • 2 garlic cloves, crushed
  • 2 sprigs fresh thyme
  • 1 strip lemon peel
  • Juice of 1 1/2 lemons
  • 1 tbsp baby capers, drained
  • 1 small bunch fresh dill, chopped
  • 600g new potatoes, boiled and cracked, to serve
  • Cucumber pickled in dill and vinegar, to serve

Method

  1. Pat the halibut dry on both sides. Season the flesh side with salt and pepper; dust the skin side with seasoned flour.
  2. Heat the oil in a wide heavy pan over medium-high heat until shimmering.
  3. Lay the halibut skin-side down. Press flat for 30 seconds to set the skin. Cook 4 minutes without moving until the skin is crisp and golden.
  4. Add 60g of the butter, the garlic, thyme and lemon peel. As the butter foams, tilt the pan and baste the top of the fish continuously for 90 seconds.
  5. Flip the halibut over briefly and cook 30 seconds. Lift to a warm plate.
  6. Add the remaining 60g butter to the pan. Let it foam and turn the colour of a hazelnut.
  7. Off the heat, squeeze in the lemon juice, swirl in the capers and most of the dill.
  8. Spoon the brown butter sauce over each portion of halibut. Serve with cracked new potatoes and a side of dill pickles.

Tip from the editors. Halibut overcooks in 60 seconds; pull at 50C internal and rest. Brown butter must be browned but not burnt; the smell turns from milky to nutty within seconds of the foam subsiding.

Where to eat baltic halibut

Baltic halibut in Gdańsk

Zafishowani ★ 4.3

Baltic Seafood$$$main-town

Zafishowani in Gdańsk works a Tokarska Street townhouse with a wine bar and shop attached to the restaurant. Located in Main Town. Priced at $$$.

Signature: Halibut, Baltic herring tasting

Order: Halibut grilled simply, with a flight from the next-door wine shop.

Tip: The wine shop pours bottles at retail-plus prices, well under restaurant lists.

Targ Rybny - Fishmarkt ★ 4.2

Seafood$$Mon-Sat 12:00-23:00; Sun 13:00-21:00Until Mon-Sun 24:00

Targ Rybny - Fishmarkt in Gdańsk runs a midnight close every day, the latest-serving proper seafood kitchen in the centre. Smoked eel, oysters, Baltic fish.

Try: Seafood plates

Tip: Last orders 23:30 for kitchen; the bar runs until midnight Kitchen close differs from bar close.

True ★ 4.4

SeafoodChef House team$$$$250-350 $Mon-Thu 17:00-23:00; Fri-Sat 13:00-24:00; Sun 13:00-22:00Book 1 week ahead

True in Gdańsk, Michelin-recommended, runs the surf-and-turf brief out of the Radisson Blu on Granary Island. Aged beef, Baltic seafood, the same kitchen.

Cała Naprzód ★ 4.0

Polish Seafood$$main-town

Cała Naprzód in Gdańsk crowns the Maritime Culture Centre on Tokarska with a fourth-floor terrace beside the medieval Crane. Located in Main Town.

Signature: Kashubian herring, Pike-perch and smoked-trout pierogi

Order: Pike-perch fillet with spinach and cauliflower, or the pike-perch and smoked-trout pierogi.

Tip: Take the museum's central glass lift directly to the fourth floor.

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