Dongnae pajeon
Photo: by Tales of an LA Addict (Abby) at Flickr · CC BY-SA 2.0

History

Dongnae pajeon belongs to Busan's old walled town, where the Dongnae market sat on the road to the hot springs. Local records tie it to the spring-onion harvests of the Nakdong delta and to offerings for the Dongnae magistracy; the dish survived as a market-day and rainy-day ritual. Dongnae Halmae Pajeon, four generations in, still griddles the canonical version, thick with onions, clams and prawn under a soft egg finish.

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Common allergens: Wheat (gluten), Shellfish, Egg

Make it at home

Yield Serves 2 to 3Hands-on 30 minTotal 40 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 200g thin spring onions, trimmed to pan length
  • 150g mixed clam meat, prawns and squid, chopped
  • 80g rice flour, 60g wheat flour, 240ml anchovy stock, 1 tsp doenjang
  • 2 eggs, beaten; neutral oil; vinegar-soy dip

Method

  1. Whisk the flours with stock and doenjang into a thin batter, looser than pancake batter.
  2. Heat a generous film of oil in a heavy pan. Lay the spring onions in a tight raft, all facing one way.
  3. Pour over half the batter, scatter the seafood, then the remaining batter. Fry 4 minutes on medium.
  4. Pour the beaten egg over the top, flip once, and fry 3 more minutes until the edges crisp while the centre stays soft.
  5. Slide out whole, cut with scissors at the table and eat with the vinegar-soy dip.

Tip from the editors. Do not press the pancake flat or cook it dry; Dongnae style means crisp lace at the rim and an almost runny, oniony heart.

Where to eat dongnae pajeon

Dongnae pajeon in Busan

Dongnae Halmae Pajeon ★ 4.5

₩₩₩ KoreanDongnae and Oncheonjang

Dongnae Halmae Pajeon has griddled Busan's definitive green-onion pancake for four generations, in the old district that gave the dish its name.

OrderDongnae pajeon, 28,000 won, thick with spring onion and seafood.

Why locals goThe fourth-generation home of Busan's court-recorded pajeon sits in old Dongnae, far from every tourist artery.

TipThe pajeon comes custardy in the middle by design; order the conch as the second plate.

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