History
Country ham is the Appalachian curing tradition: pork shoulder or leg salt-cured and aged for 9 to 12 months, often hardwood-smoked. The Western North Carolina version traces to Scots-Irish farms; Allan Benton's Tennessee hams, used by most Asheville fine-dining kitchens, set the contemporary benchmark from his Madisonville smokehouse. Sorghum syrup, pressed and boiled from sorghum cane in October-November across the Blue Ridge, is the canonical sweet partner. The country-ham-and-sorghum biscuit appears at The Market Place, Rhubarb, Sunny Point Café and Biscuit Head; the format is a Carolinas signature.
Make it at home
Yield Serves 4Hands-on 10 minTotal 35 minDifficulty Easy
Ingredients
- 4 buttermilk biscuits (see cathead biscuit recipe)
- 200g thinly sliced country ham (Benton's if you can get it)
- 60g unsalted butter, softened
- 60ml sorghum syrup (or grade B maple)
- Black pepper
Method
- Bake the biscuits according to the cathead biscuit recipe.
- Heat a heavy pan over medium-high. Lay the country ham in batches and cook 30 seconds a side until the edges curl and the fat just turns translucent. Country ham is salt-cured; do not overcook or it turns tough.
- Split the warm biscuits horizontally. Spread the cut sides lightly with butter.
- Layer the warm ham slices onto the biscuit bottoms.
- Drizzle each with a teaspoon of sorghum syrup. Add a crack of black pepper. Close and serve immediately.
Tip from the editors. Country ham is properly aggressive on the salt; the sorghum is what balances it. Don't skip the drizzle or the biscuit eats one-note.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.