History

Cretans have eaten snails since Minoan times, and excavations across the island have turned up shell middens beside kitchen debris. They are gathered after autumn and spring rains, purged for several days, and cooked in ways that vary by household. Boubouristi is the most theatrical: the pan is hot, the snails go in face down, and the oil seals each shell so the flesh cooks in its own juices. The splash of vinegar at the end lifts the whole thing. Heraklion tavernas serve them as a meze with bread for the pan juices, and eating them properly requires either a pin or a great deal of confidence.

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Common allergens: Molluscs

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4 as a mezeHands-on 20 minTotal 30 minDifficulty Intermediate

Ingredients

  • 1kg live snails, purged and cleaned
  • 100ml extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons coarse sea salt
  • 60ml red wine vinegar
  • 2 sprigs of rosemary
  • Bread, to serve

Method

  1. Rinse the purged snails repeatedly in cold water until the water runs clear, then drain them well.
  2. Toss them with the coarse salt and leave for ten minutes, then rinse once more.
  3. Heat the olive oil in a wide pan until it shimmers, and set the snails in shell-side down in a single layer.
  4. Fry undisturbed for about five minutes, until the openings have sealed and the shells darken.
  5. Add the rosemary, then pour in the vinegar and stand back. Cover and cook two minutes more.
  6. Serve straight from the pan with bread for the juices.

Tip from the editors. Buy purged snails from a fishmonger if you can. Home purging takes three days on flour and clean water.

Where to eat chochlioi boubouristi

Chochlioi boubouristi in Heraklion

Parasties ★ 4.6

€€€ Greek tavernaOld Town

Parasties runs a Cretan-leaning wine list beside its open fire in Heraklion, with floor staff who match bottles to whatever the oven is cooking.

OrderA Cretan red poured to match the smoked steak

PourA Cretan red with the smoked steak

WineMostly Cretan producers

FoodLive-fire Cretan menu

TipThe floor staff will steer the list if you tell them what is coming off the fire.

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