History

Cha yen took its modern form in mid-20th-century Bangkok, when imported British black tea was blended with star anise, tamarind and yellow food colouring (the famous orange hue) and sweetened with the cheap condensed milk that arrived via American post-WWII aid. The drink became a fixture at every noodle cart and night market by the 1970s. Each Bangkok stall mixes its own ratio of condensed-to-evaporated milk; the two-tone pour (sweet white over hot orange) is the visual signature, and the drink anchors every Sukhumvit Soi 38 noodle session.

Common allergens: Dairy

Make it at home

Yield 2Hands-on 10 minTotal 15 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 30g Thai tea mix (Ceylon black tea ground with star anise, cardamom and orange food colour; sold at Asian groceries; or substitute 30g strong loose-leaf Ceylon black tea plus 2 crushed star anise and 4 cardamom pods)
  • 500ml water
  • 80g caster sugar
  • 80ml sweetened condensed milk
  • 60ml evaporated milk
  • Crushed ice, to fill two tall glasses
  • 30ml whole milk, optional, for the floating top layer

Method

  1. Bring the water to a rolling boil. Take off the heat; stir in the Thai tea mix.
  2. Steep 5 minutes if using Thai tea mix, or 7 minutes if using black tea plus whole spices, for a strong infusion.
  3. Strain through a fine sieve into a heatproof jug.
  4. Stir in the sugar and condensed milk while the tea is still hot; whisk to dissolve fully.
  5. Cool the tea to room temperature, then refrigerate at least 30 minutes (the flavour deepens cold).
  6. Fill two tall glasses with crushed ice.
  7. Pour the chilled sweetened tea over the ice to within 2cm of the top.
  8. Float the evaporated milk over the back of a spoon to create the two-tone top layer. For a paler finish add a splash of whole milk last.
  9. Serve with a long straw; stir to combine just before drinking.

Tip from the editors. It is meant to be sweet; if cloying, dilute with extra ice rather than cut the sugar. Buy Cha Tra Mue Number One Brand in the red foil bag.

Where to eat cha yen (thai iced tea)

Cha yen (Thai iced tea) in Bangkok

Sukhumvit Soi 38 night noodle stalls ★ 4.0

Street food฿Daily 18:00-02:00 (vendor hours vary)Cash only

Sukhumvit Soi 38 in Bangkok was the city's canonical late-night noodle alley, with pork noodle counters and stir-fry stalls feeding the Thonglor and Ekkamai.

Try: Pork noodles, kuay teow stalls, satay

Tip: The remaining stalls cluster near the Thonglor BTS end of Soi 38. Late-night queues from 22:00; cash only, bring small notes.

Sukhumvit Soi 38, Phra Khanong, Khlong Toei, Bangkok 10110

Or Tor Kor market food stalls ★ 4.5

Street food฿Daily 06:00-18:00 (food court hours vary)

Or Tor Kor in Bangkok's Chatuchak is the agricultural market with the cleanest food court in the city, som tam stalls, grilled-chicken counters.

Try: Som tam, grilled chicken, curry plates

Tip: The som tam pla ra stall in the back corner is the canonical order; the durian and mangosteen vendors at the front are seasonal.

101 Kamphaeng Phet Road, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900

Yaowarat night market street stalls ★ 4.7

Street food฿Daily 18:00-02:00 (vendor hours vary)Cash only

Yaowarat Road in Bangkok's Chinatown is the city's most theatrical street-food strip after dark, with grilled seafood, noodle counters and dim sum carts.

Try: Grilled seafood, dim sum, noodle stalls

Tip: Start at Soi Texas (Phadungdao) corner for grilled prawns; Nai Mong Hoi Tod and Lek and Rut are the canonical seafood stalls.

Yaowarat Road, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100

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