History
The cathead biscuit takes its name from its size, allegedly as big as a cat's head. Scots-Irish settlers brought the biscuit tradition to the Western North Carolina mountains in the 1800s; Asheville's modern revival starts at Biscuit Head, opened by Jason and Carolyn Roy on Haywood Road in 2013, with a jam bar of house preserves, hot honeys and fruit butters as the defining innovation. Sunny Point Café's biscuit-and-gravy version anchors the West Asheville brunch crawl; Tupelo Honey on College Street downtown serves the touristy-but-canonical fried-chicken-biscuit format. Country ham, sausage gravy, sweet potato butter and apple butter are the four classic toppings.
Make it at home
Yield Serves 6 biscuitsHands-on 20 minTotal 35 minDifficulty Easy
Ingredients
- 500g self-rising soft-wheat flour (White Lily if you can get it)
- 1 tbsp baking powder
- 1 tsp fine salt
- 1 tbsp sugar
- 120g cold unsalted butter, cubed
- 60g cold lard or shortening, cubed
- 360ml cold buttermilk
- 2 tbsp melted butter for brushing
- Country ham slices, sausage gravy, sorghum syrup or jam to serve
Method
- Heat the oven to 230C/450F. Line a heavy baking tray with parchment.
- Whisk flour, baking powder, salt and sugar in a wide bowl.
- Cut the cold butter and lard into the flour with a pastry cutter until the mixture looks like coarse cornmeal with pea-size pieces.
- Pour the cold buttermilk in and stir with a wooden spoon until just combined; the dough should be shaggy and sticky, not smooth.
- Turn the dough onto a floured surface, pat to a 3 cm thick round, fold over twice, then pat back to 3 cm.
- Cut six 9 cm rounds with a sharp biscuit cutter; do not twist or the rise stalls. Place close together on the tray.
- Brush with melted butter and bake 12 to 15 minutes until tall, golden and the bottoms snap when tapped.
Tip from the editors. Cold ingredients are the whole game. If your butter softens between the bowl and the oven, chill the dough 10 minutes before baking, or you lose the rise.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.