Carrillada ibérica
Photo: LWY from Pasadena, USA · CC BY 2.0

History

Carrillada, the pork cheek, is braised slowly in wine until it falls apart. Bodeguita Antonio Romero lists a carrillada tapa and a carrillada al vino as a main plate, Bodeguita Casablanca a carrillada de cerdo al vino tinto, Casa Cuesta a stew of pork cheeks with PX wine and Las Teresas a carrilera ibérica. We found no page that dates the dish or says it became canon in the late 20th century, so we make no such claim.

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Common allergens: Sulphites

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 3 hr 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1kg Iberian pork cheeks (carrilladas ibéricas), trimmed of sinew
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 large onions, finely diced
  • 1 large carrot, finely diced
  • 1 leek, white and pale green only, finely sliced
  • 6 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 1 bottle good Spanish red wine (Tempranillo or Rioja Crianza)
  • 100ml Pedro Ximénez sherry (or substitute oloroso plus 1 teaspoon brown sugar)
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 small bunch fresh thyme
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 4 cloves
  • 8 black peppercorns
  • 1 small piece dried orange peel (optional)
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Plain flour for dusting
  • To serve: country bread fried in olive oil, or potato puree, fresh parsley

Method

  1. Pat the pork cheeks dry. Season with salt and pepper and dust very lightly with flour.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy casserole. Brown the pork cheeks on all sides over high heat, 8 minutes total. Lift out.
  3. Reduce the heat. Add the onion, carrot and leek; cook 12 minutes until soft and just golden.
  4. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Stir in the tomato paste and cook 1 minute more.
  5. Return the pork cheeks. Pour over the red wine, Pedro Ximénez and add the bay leaves, thyme, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns and orange peel.
  6. Bring to a simmer, cover, and braise at 150C for 2.5 to 3 hours until the cheeks yield to a fork.
  7. Lift the cheeks out. Strain the sauce through a sieve, pressing the vegetables. Discard the solids.
  8. Return the sauce to the pan and reduce by a third over high heat until glossy and slightly thickened.
  9. Slice or break the pork cheeks into pieces and return to the sauce. Warm through.
  10. Plate on slices of fried bread or alongside a smooth potato puree. Scatter parsley.

Tip from the editors. Iberian black-pig pork cheeks are the dish; supermarket pork cheeks work but the flavour is thinner. Look for jamón Ibérico cheeks at any Spanish butcher.

Where to eat carrillada ibérica

Carrillada ibérica in Seville

Bodeguita Antonio Romero ★ 4.4

Spanish tapas

Bodeguita Antonio Romero on Calle Antonia Diaz, in Arenal, is where it all began in 1994, with Andalusian tapas, a bar, tables and a terrace.

TryPunta de solomillo, the house classic

TipStand at the bar for a caña and a tapa de pringá, or sit down for a Rioja with solomillo al whisky.

Casa Cuesta ★ 4.6

TapasTriana

Casa Cuesta is a tapas bar at Calle Castilla 1, 41010 Sevilla, reached on +34 954 33 33 35.

Bodeguita Casablanca ★ 4.3

Spanish tapas

Bodeguita Casablanca at Calle Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado 12 serves traditional Andalusian cooking, with fried octopus and tortilla de patatas al whisky.

TipOrder the puntillitas al ajillo sautéed with baby broad beans, or the tortilla de patatas al whisky.

Las Teresas ★ 4.5

SpanishSanta Cruz

Las Teresas, on Calle Santa Teresa in Seville, serves lomito ibérico de bellota and cinta lomo ibérico adobado, with opening hours from morning until late.

OrderThe lomito ibérico de bellota, or the cinta lomo ibérico adobado.

TipOpen Monday to Sunday from 10:00 to 1:00; the list includes morcón ibérico de bellota and punta de solomillo al whisky.

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