History

Carrillada (pork cheeks) became Sevillano taberna canon through the late 20th century as a thrift cut prepared with the abundant Andalusian red wine and sherry traditions. The Iberian black-pig pork cheek is the canonical version, with the fat content that makes the long braise melt into the sauce. Bodeguita Antonio Romero, Bodega Santa Cruz and the older tabernas of the Santa Cruz quarter plate the reference Sevillano version, often as a half-tapa portion.

Common allergens: Sulphites

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 3 hr 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1kg Iberian pork cheeks (carrilladas ibéricas), trimmed of sinew
  • 3 tablespoons olive oil
  • 2 large onions, finely diced
  • 1 large carrot, finely diced
  • 1 leek, white and pale green only, finely sliced
  • 6 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 1 bottle good Spanish red wine (Tempranillo or Rioja Crianza)
  • 100ml Pedro Ximénez sherry (or substitute oloroso plus 1 teaspoon brown sugar)
  • 2 tablespoons tomato paste
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 small bunch fresh thyme
  • 1 cinnamon stick
  • 4 cloves
  • 8 black peppercorns
  • 1 small piece dried orange peel (optional)
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Plain flour for dusting
  • To serve: country bread fried in olive oil, or potato puree, fresh parsley

Method

  1. Pat the pork cheeks dry. Season with salt and pepper and dust very lightly with flour.
  2. Heat the olive oil in a heavy casserole. Brown the pork cheeks on all sides over high heat, 8 minutes total. Lift out.
  3. Reduce the heat. Add the onion, carrot and leek; cook 12 minutes until soft and just golden.
  4. Add the garlic and cook 1 minute. Stir in the tomato paste and cook 1 minute more.
  5. Return the pork cheeks. Pour over the red wine, Pedro Ximénez and add the bay leaves, thyme, cinnamon, cloves, peppercorns and orange peel.
  6. Bring to a simmer, cover, and braise at 150C for 2.5 to 3 hours until the cheeks yield to a fork.
  7. Lift the cheeks out. Strain the sauce through a sieve, pressing the vegetables. Discard the solids.
  8. Return the sauce to the pan and reduce by a third over high heat until glossy and slightly thickened.
  9. Slice or break the pork cheeks into pieces and return to the sauce. Warm through.
  10. Plate on slices of fried bread or alongside a smooth potato puree. Scatter parsley.

Tip from the editors. Iberian black-pig pork cheeks are the dish; supermarket pork cheeks work but the flavour is thinner. Look for jamón Ibérico cheeks at any Spanish butcher.

Where to eat carrillada ibérica

Carrillada ibérica in Seville

Bodeguita Antonio Romero ★ 4.4

Street food€Daily 12:00-24:00

Bodeguita Antonio Romero on Calle Antonia Diaz in Seville's Arenal is the since-1994 tapas counter where the Piripi montadito (pork loin, bacon.

Try: Piripi montadito

Tip: Standing room at the bar is fastest; the Piripi is the house signature, order one and a chorizo picante to start.

Calle Antonia Diaz 19, 41001 Sevilla

Bodega Santa Cruz Las Columnas ★ 4.4

Spanish tapas€

Bodega Santa Cruz, called Las Columnas, runs the city's canonical montaditos in Seville's Santa Cruz for 2 to 2.50 euros each, with a standing-room counter.

Try: Montaditos under 2.50 euros each

Tip: Standing only; six montaditos and two canas land around 12 euros for two. Cash and card accepted.

Calle Rodrigo Caro 1, 41004 Sevilla

Bar El Comercio ★ 4.4

Brunch€

Bar El Comercio on Calle Lineros in Seville is the city's churreria since 1904, with five churros con chocolate at 2.50 euros and a working-day breakfast.

Try: Five churros con chocolate

Tip: Breakfast under 5 euros at the standing counter; tostada and cortado pair at 3.50 euros.

Calle Lineros 9, 41004 Sevilla

Casa Morales ★ 4.3

Spanish tapas€

Casa Morales on Calle Garcia de Vinuesa in Seville is the 1850 bodega with cana, tapas under 3 euros and vermut pulled from giant wood casks at the standing.

Try: Cana with the working-day tapa

Tip: Standing-only at the front; the wood casks line the back wall. Vermut from the barrel runs 2 euros.

Calle Garcia de Vinuesa 11, 41001 Sevilla

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