Maison Naegel ★ 4.4
Maison Naegel on Rue des Orfevres has baked near the cathedral since 1927, known for its savoury Tourte Naegel, kougelhopf, pates and a panelled tea salon.
Worth the queue: Tourte Naegel and kougelhopf
The Alsatian pretzel: a glossy, dark-baked knot of lye-dipped dough, scattered with coarse salt, chewy inside and snapped apart warm as a street snack or with a beer.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.
The bretzel has been an Alsatian and southern German staple for centuries, its looped shape a baker's guild emblem long before it was a snack. Dipped in a lye bath before baking, it takes on its mahogany sheen and distinctive bite. In Strasbourg you find it warm from bakery counters and at market and Christmas stalls, sometimes split and filled, sometimes baked into the sweeter mauricette roll. It is the everyday face of Alsatian baking.
Common allergens: Gluten
Tip from the editors. A proper lye bath gives the darkest crust, but baking soda is the safe home substitute and still works well.
This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.
Maison Naegel on Rue des Orfevres has baked near the cathedral since 1927, known for its savoury Tourte Naegel, kougelhopf, pates and a panelled tea salon.
Worth the queue: Tourte Naegel and kougelhopf
Le Fournil d'Austerlitz on Rue d'Austerlitz bakes Alsatian specialties all day, from streusel cake and braided brioche to sweet and savoury kougelhopfs.
Worth the queue: Mini to maxi kougelhopf
Au Pain de mon Grand-Pere on Rue de la Krutenau bakes organic-flour breads and viennoiserie on natural levain in a wood-fired oven, with a sharp baguette.
Worth the queue: Wood-fired baguette
More cities are in research. Want bretzel covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.