History

Invented by a Bras family tavern keeper in Lisbon's Bairro Alto in the late 19th century as a thrift dish, combining the new fad of potato chips with leftover bacalhau and bound with creamy scrambled eggs. The dish travelled the country in 20th-century cookbooks and now anchors lunch menus from family tascas to chef-led rooms, with Solar dos Presuntos plating the canonical classical version that Bairro Alto regulars cite as the benchmark.

Common allergens: Fish, Eggs

Make it at home

Yield 4Hands-on 30 minTotal 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 400g desalted bacalhau, flaked
  • 500g potatoes, cut into matchsticks (or quality batata palha)
  • 2 sweet onions, sliced thin
  • 4 garlic cloves, sliced
  • 8 eggs, beaten with salt and pepper
  • Pitted black olives
  • Flat-leaf parsley, chopped
  • Olive oil and butter for the pan

Method

  1. Fry the potato matchsticks in plenty of hot olive oil until golden, drain on paper.
  2. In the same pan with a splash of oil and a knob of butter, sweat the onions and garlic until very soft.
  3. Add the flaked bacalhau and warm through, two minutes.
  4. Tip the fried potato back into the pan and stir to coat.
  5. Pour the beaten eggs over, fold gently until just set, around 90 seconds.
  6. Slide onto a warmed plate, top with black olives and parsley, serve at once.

Tip from the editors. Eggs barely set is the target. Take the pan off the heat just before they look done, residual heat finishes them.

Where to eat bacalhau à brás

Bacalhau à Brás in Lisbon

Solar dos Presuntos ★ 4.5

Portuguese Seafood€€€RestauradoresMon-Sat 12:00-15:30, 18:30-23:00

Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.

Signature: Arroz de marisco, Roast kid, Bacalhau a Braz

Order: The plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.

O Velho Eurico ★ 4.7

Portuguese€€mourariaTue-Sat 12:30-15:00, 20:00-22:30, Sun 12:30-15:00, 20:00-22:30, closed Monday

O Velho Eurico is a neo-tasca tucked behind sao cristovao church that books out a month ahead via instagram dm, tourists rarely find their way.

Why locals love it: A neo-tasca tucked behind Sao Cristovao church that books out a month ahead via Instagram DM, tourists rarely find their way.

Tip: DM the Instagram account for reservations. Walk-ins are very rare.

Casa do Alentejo ★ 4.2

Alentejano€€RestauradoresDaily 12:00-15:00, 19:00-23:00

Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon's Restauradores: a 17th-century palace with a Moorish patio serving the bread soups, migas and pork of the Alentejo.

Signature: Acorda alentejana, Migas com entrecosto, Carne de porco a alentejana

Order: Acorda alentejana, the bread-and-coriander soup, with a poached egg.

Pap'Acorda ★ 4.4

Modern Portuguese€€€cais-do-sodreTue-Wed 12:00-24:00, Thu-Sun 12:00-02:00

Pap'Acorda in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a Bairro Alto classic reborn at Mercado da Ribeira, still cooking Manuela Brandao's signature seafood acorda.

Signature: Acorda de marisco, Chocolate mousse

Order: Acorda de marisco, the bread-and-shellfish stew that named the room.

Bacalhau à Brás in Porto

Adega Sao Nicolau ★ 4.3

Traditional Portuguese€€ribeiraMon-Sat 12:00-15:00 19:00-22:30

Adega Sao Nicolau in Porto's Ribeira has been pouring red since the 1940s, serving polvo a lagareiro on a small Douro-facing terrace below the quay.

Signature: Polvo a lagareiro, Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa

Order: Polvo a lagareiro: octopus baked with potatoes, garlic and a slug of olive oil.

Tip: Lunch service from noon. The river-side terrace fills first; the inside room is cooler in August.

Cafe Santiago ★ 4.4

Portuguese (francesinha)€€baixaMon-Sat 11:00-23:00

Cafe Santiago on Rua de Passos Manuel in Porto is the most-cited francesinha counter, layered with mortadella, sausage and steak under tomato-beer sauce.

Signature: Francesinha

Order: Francesinha especial with egg, side of fries to soak the sauce.

Tip: Closed Sundays. The original 226 site is the one locals defend; the second site up the street is overflow.

Tapabento ★ 4.5

Portuguese€€€baixaWed-Sun 12:00-15:00 19:00-22:00

Tapabento behind Sao Bento station in Porto plates octopus salad, duck rice and grilled tiger prawns in a small, loud, family-run dining room.

Signature: Octopus salad, Duck rice

Order: The octopus salad to start, then the duck rice with chourico.

Tip: Closed Monday and Tuesday. Book the 19:00 sitting if you want a chance of a same-day table.

More cities are in research. Want bacalhau à brás covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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