Lisbon
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Lisbon: Food and Wine Small Group Walking Tour
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History
Invented by a Bras family tavern keeper in Lisbon's Bairro Alto in the late 19th century as a thrift dish, combining the new fad of potato chips with leftover bacalhau and bound with creamy scrambled eggs. The dish travelled the country in 20th-century cookbooks and now anchors lunch menus from family tascas to chef-led rooms, with Solar dos Presuntos plating the canonical classical version that Bairro Alto regulars cite as the benchmark.
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Funchal
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Braga
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Common allergens: Fish, Eggs
Make it at home
Ingredients
- 400g desalted bacalhau, flaked
- 500g potatoes, cut into matchsticks (or quality batata palha)
- 2 sweet onions, sliced thin
- 4 garlic cloves, sliced
- 8 eggs, beaten with salt and pepper
- Pitted black olives
- Flat-leaf parsley, chopped
- Olive oil and butter for the pan
Method
- Fry the potato matchsticks in plenty of hot olive oil until golden, drain on paper.
- In the same pan with a splash of oil and a knob of butter, sweat the onions and garlic until very soft.
- Add the flaked bacalhau and warm through, two minutes.
- Tip the fried potato back into the pan and stir to coat.
- Pour the beaten eggs over, fold gently until just set, around 90 seconds.
- Slide onto a warmed plate, top with black olives and parsley, serve at once.
Tip from the editors. Eggs barely set is the target. Take the pan off the heat just before they look done, residual heat finishes them.
Where to eat bacalhau à brás
Bacalhau à Brás in Lisbon
Solar dos Presuntos ★ 4.5
Solar dos Presuntos in Restauradores, Lisbon: a family seafood institution open since 1974, famous for cured ham, Minho cuisine and a celebrity wall.
OrderThe plate of presunto first, then arroz de marisco for two.
O Velho Eurico ★ 4.7
O Velho Eurico is a neo-tasca tucked behind sao cristovao church that books out a month ahead via instagram dm, tourists rarely find their way.
Why locals goA neo-tasca tucked behind Sao Cristovao church that books out a month ahead via Instagram DM, tourists rarely find their way.
TipDM the Instagram account for reservations. Walk-ins are very rare.
Casa do Alentejo ★ 4.2
Casa do Alentejo in Lisbon's Restauradores: a 17th-century palace with a Moorish patio serving the bread soups, migas and pork of the Alentejo.
OrderAcorda alentejana, the bread-and-coriander soup, with a poached egg.
Pap'Acorda ★ 4.4
Pap'Acorda in Cais do Sodre, Lisbon: a Bairro Alto classic reborn at Mercado da Ribeira, still cooking Manuela Brandao's signature seafood acorda.
OrderAcorda de marisco, the bread-and-shellfish stew that named the room.
Bacalhau à Brás in Porto
Adega Sao Nicolau ★ 4.3
Adega Sao Nicolau in Porto's Ribeira has been pouring red since the 1940s, serving polvo a lagareiro on a small Douro-facing terrace below the quay.
OrderPolvo a lagareiro: octopus baked with potatoes, garlic and a slug of olive oil.
TipLunch service from noon. The river-side terrace fills first; the inside room is cooler in August.
Cafe Santiago ★ 4.4
Cafe Santiago on Rua de Passos Manuel in Porto is the most-cited francesinha counter, layered with mortadella, sausage and steak under tomato-beer sauce.
OrderFrancesinha especial with egg, side of fries to soak the sauce.
TipClosed Sundays. The original 226 site is the one locals defend; the second site up the street is overflow.
Tapabento ★ 4.5
Tapabento behind Sao Bento station in Porto plates octopus salad, duck rice and grilled tiger prawns in a small, loud, family-run dining room.
OrderThe octopus salad to start, then the duck rice with chourico.
TipClosed Monday and Tuesday. Book the 19:00 sitting if you want a chance of a same-day table.
More cities are in research. Want bacalhau à brás covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.