Deli$mile-endTue-Sat 10:00-16:00
Wilensky's is a nine-stool Mile End counter open since 1932, serving the fried bologna-and-salami Special exactly as it did in Mordecai Richler's novels.
Order: The Wilensky Special with mustard, no substitutions allowed.
Tip: They never cut the sandwich and never hold the mustard; order it their way or not at all.
Deli$$outremontMon-Thu 09:00-21:00; Fri-Sat 09:00-22:00
Lester's is the Outremont deli locals send you to when the Schwartz's line is too long, smoking its own brisket on Avenue Bernard since 1951.
Order: A smoked meat sandwich, medium, with fries and a side of coleslaw.
Tip: It is calmer and roomier than the Plateau delis; a good sit-down option with kids in tow.
Street food$$plateauDaily 00:00-24:00
La Banquise is Montreal's round-the-clock poutine institution on Rue Rachel, slinging more than thirty gravy-soaked variations to a 24-hour crowd.
Order: La Taquise poutine with guacamole, or the classic with extra cheese curds.
Tip: Weekend nights bring a long post-bar line; go on a weekday afternoon for a seat straight away.
Portuguese$$plateauTue-Sun 11:00-21:00
Ma Poule Mouillee is the tiny Plateau counter grilling charcoal Portuguese chicken over Rue Rachel, its piri-piri birds and francesinha drawing daily lines.
Order: A half charcoal chicken with piri-piri and a poutine topped with chicken.
Tip: Seating is minimal and cash speeds things up; get it to go and eat in nearby Parc Lafontaine.
Portuguese$$plateauMon-Sun 10:00-21:00
Romados is a Portuguese rotisserie and bakery on Rue Rachel in Montreal, drawing daily lines for its charcoal piri-piri chicken and custard tarts.
Order: A charcoal chicken with spicy sauce, plus a pastel de nata for dessert.
Tip: Order the chicken and a couple of natas together; the queue at noon is worth beating early.
Rotisserie$$ndgMon-Sun 11:00-22:00
Chalet BBQ has roasted hardwood-charcoal chicken in NDG since 1944, an unchanged Montreal rotisserie whose quarter-chicken and gravy fries define the genre.
Order: A quarter chicken with fries and the house barbecue dipping sauce.
Tip: The room looks frozen in the 1960s on purpose; dine in for the full retro rotisserie experience.