Chinese$$downtownMon-Sun 11:00-21:00
Nouilles de Lan Zhou hand-pulls its noodles to order in Montreal's Chinatown, the dough stretched at the window over bowls of cumin-spiced beef broth.
Order: Hand-pulled beef noodle soup, watched being stretched at the counter.
Tip: Ask for your noodles thin or wide when you order; the beef soup is the one to get.
Japanese$$plateauTue-Fri 11:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 16:00-22:00
Tri Express is chef Tri Du's cramped, joyful sushi counter on Laurier Est in Montreal, a Plateau favourite for inventive maki eaten elbow to elbow.
Order: Whatever the chef sends out; the omakase-style specials beat the menu.
Tip: The space is tiny and cash-friendly; go early or expect to wait for one of the few seats.
Chinese$$downtownMon-Sun 11:00-21:30
Qing Hua fills its soup dumplings by hand in Montreal's Chinatown, a bustling counter where the pork-and-crab xiao long bao arrive by the steaming dozen.
Order: A dozen pork and crab soup dumplings, plus the coriander ones.
Tip: Order fewer dumplings than you think; a dozen each is plenty and they come out fast.
Indian$$parc-extensionMon-Sat 11:00-22:00; Sun 11:00-21:00
Bombay Mahal is the roaring BYOB Indian canteen of Parc-Extension in Montreal, plating fiery South Asian classics to crowds who bring their own beer.
Order: The butter chicken and a plate of pani puri, with a bottle you brought.
Tip: It is bring-your-own-wine and cash-friendly; grab beer from the depanneur next door first.
Mexican$$saint-henriTue-Sun 11:30-21:00
Tacos Frida grills proper Mexico City-style tacos in Saint-Henri, Montreal, its al pastor carved off the trompo onto small corn tortillas made in house.
Order: Three al pastor tacos with pineapple and a fresh agua fresca.
Tip: Order by the taco and try a few fillings; the salsas on the counter do the heavy lifting.
Vietnamese$rosemontMon-Sun 10:00-21:00
Pho Tay Ho is the Petite-Patrie pho specialist in Montreal, ladling deeply spiced beef broth over rice noodles that locals rank among the city's best.
Order: A large pho tai with brisket and a side of Vietnamese coffee.
Tip: Cash is easiest and the broth is the point; skip the appetisers and order the big bowl.