€binnenstad
Hotsy Totsy has been injecting Ghent with blues and jazz since the 1970s. The Claus brothers' bar hosts live music most evenings from September to June.
Order: A cold Belgian beer and a seat near the stage on a live jazz night: the room holds fewer than 50 people.
Tip: Open Tuesday to Saturday from 18:15; closed Sunday and Monday. Summers are lighter programming; September to June is the season.
€€binnenstad
Missy Sippy opened in 2015 as a contemporary juke joint next to Sint-Niklaaskerk, with vintage New Orleans decor and live blues and roots music nightly.
Order: A local craft beer at the bar before the live set starts: the sound quality in this room is unusually good.
Tip: Check their Facebook for the weekly concert calendar; live nights fill up so arrive 30 minutes before.
€patershol
Rococo is Betty's candlelit bar on the Patershol cobblestones. The single room is lit entirely by candles; the atmosphere is intimate and the conversation.
Order: Whatever is on draught: the focus here is atmosphere, not the beer list.
Tip: Opens after 21:00; arrives late and stay late. Betty runs the bar at her own pace.
€€dok-noord
Dok Brewing Company occupies a converted metal workshop at Dok Noord with 30 taps: their own house brews plus guest taps from Belgian craft breweries. Long.
Order: Dok house pale ale on draught: the cleanest expression of the house brewing style, always fresh.
Tip: Open Thursday to Saturday until 01:00; this is one of the few places in Dok Noord that works as a late-night destination.
€€binnenstad
Gruut is Ghent's city brewery using a medieval herb recipe with no hops: five beers (white, blonde, amber, brown and Inferno) brewed and served on site.
Order: Gruut Inferno: the strongest and most complex of the five house beers, amber with a herbal bitterness.
Tip: Brewery tours run on Saturdays; the tasting includes all five house beers. Book ahead in summer.
€€binnenstad
Wijnbar ONA on the corner of Bagattenstraat and Nederkouter is Ona Van Reybrouck and Arne De Wilde's intimate natural-wine spot, opened in 2015, focused on small-grower bottles. A second branch opened on Belfortstraat for tastings and classes.
Order: A by-the-glass flight from the chalkboard list paired with a cheese-and-charcuterie board.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday until 8pm only; closed Sunday and Monday. Walk-ins fine early, reserve for after 18:00.