Cocktails, wine bars and dives: drinking in Ghent for grown-ups.
Cocktail bars, wine bars, dive bars and gastropubs: drinking in Ghent for grown-ups.
Jigger's is a subterranean cocktail bar in the Patershol, listed on the World's 50 Best Discovery list. The cellar bar uses seasonal produce and locally.
Order: The house seasonal cocktail: the team rotates the signature list every few months based on what is growing.
Tip: Open from 17:00 Tuesday through Sunday; the back terrace on warm evenings is one of the most atmospheric drinking spots in Ghent.
De Dulle Griet has over 500 Belgian beers and one famous ritual: surrender a shoe to the bar when ordering the Max, a 1-litre glass of Delirium Tremens.
Order: Max beer (Delirium Tremens in the 1-litre glass): one shoe goes in the basket, one stays on your foot.
Tip: Open from noon Tuesday to Saturday and noon Sunday; the shoe ritual is enforced. Arrive early on Friday evenings for a seat on the square.
Pol's tiny jenever bar on the Groentenmarkt serves more than 200 jenevers, including around 50 made in-house. The low-ceilinged brown bar has barely changed.
Order: A flight of three house-made jenevers: ask Pol to choose them. The homemade range is the reason to come.
Tip: Open from 16:00 daily; cash only, the room holds around 25 people and fills fast.
Waterhuis aan de Bierkant is a canal-side brown pub on the Groentenmarkt with 170 Belgian beers, 14 on draught and a packed waterside terrace.
Order: Gruut Amber on draught: the city herb-beer is always on the tap list here.
Tip: Open from 11:00 daily; the terrace fills by 15:00 on sunny days. The canal views are best on evening visits before 21:00.
Hotsy Totsy has been injecting Ghent with blues and jazz since the 1970s. The Claus brothers' bar hosts live music most evenings from September to June.
Order: A cold Belgian beer and a seat near the stage on a live jazz night: the room holds fewer than 50 people.
Tip: Open Tuesday to Saturday from 18:15; closed Sunday and Monday. Summers are lighter programming; September to June is the season.
Missy Sippy opened in 2015 as a contemporary juke joint next to Sint-Niklaaskerk, with vintage New Orleans decor and live blues and roots music nightly.
Order: A local craft beer at the bar before the live set starts: the sound quality in this room is unusually good.
Tip: Check their Facebook for the weekly concert calendar; live nights fill up so arrive 30 minutes before.
Rococo is Betty's candlelit bar on the Patershol cobblestones. The single room is lit entirely by candles; the atmosphere is intimate and the conversation.
Order: Whatever is on draught: the focus here is atmosphere, not the beer list.
Tip: Opens after 21:00; arrives late and stay late. Betty runs the bar at her own pace.
Dok Brewing Company occupies a converted metal workshop at Dok Noord with 30 taps: their own house brews plus guest taps from Belgian craft breweries. Long.
Order: Dok house pale ale on draught: the cleanest expression of the house brewing style, always fresh.
Tip: Open Thursday to Saturday until 01:00; this is one of the few places in Dok Noord that works as a late-night destination.
Gruut is Ghent's city brewery using a medieval herb recipe with no hops: five beers (white, blonde, amber, brown and Inferno) brewed and served on site.
Order: Gruut Inferno: the strongest and most complex of the five house beers, amber with a herbal bitterness.
Tip: Brewery tours run on Saturdays; the tasting includes all five house beers. Book ahead in summer.
Wijnbar ONA on the corner of Bagattenstraat and Nederkouter is Ona Van Reybrouck and Arne De Wilde's intimate natural-wine spot, opened in 2015, focused on small-grower bottles. A second branch opened on Belfortstraat for tastings and classes.
Order: A by-the-glass flight from the chalkboard list paired with a cheese-and-charcuterie board.
Tip: Tuesday to Saturday until 8pm only; closed Sunday and Monday. Walk-ins fine early, reserve for after 18:00.
Vrijdagsgevoel commands the most prominent corner of the Friday market square, with a large terrace watching over the historic market and local life below.
Order: Ghent gin and tonic on the terrace on a Friday afternoon while the market winds down.
Tip: Open seven days a week; the Friday afternoon terrace before 18:00 is the ideal pre-dinner stop.
Edelrot functions as both a natural wine bar and a wild beer bar: the list includes wild-fermented saisons, spontaneous lambics and Belgian farmhouse ales.
Order: A wild saison from the Belgium tap list alongside a glass of natural white: the pairing is the Edelrot house.
Tip: Open from 15:00 Tuesday to Saturday; prices are genuinely fair for the quality of the natural wine selection.
Chubby Cheeks is a convivial bar-restaurant where a young team serves unusual natural wines by the glass alongside inventive small plates in a relaxed space.
Order: The by-the-glass rotation: the team changes the pours weekly and always has something unexpected open.
Tip: Walk-ins welcome; Friday and Saturday evenings fill fast and bar seats give the easiest route in without a reservation.
Bar Terroir is a small grower-wine bar on the vegetable market square with cheese platters made from traditionally-produced artisan milk. The team sources.
Order: Glass of Loire chenin blanc with a slice of aged Herve cheese: the bar's most classic pairing.
Tip: Groups up to 15 can reserve the private room with the Ghent towers view.
Vinogradoff specialises in natural and biodynamic wines from Eastern Europe, with by-the-glass pours from its bar-shop on the Ajuinlei near the Korenlei.
Order: Georgian amber wine flight: three pours from different qvevri producers that show how dramatically the style.
Tip: An evening that starts at Vinogradoff and continues to Korenlei dinner follows the best natural wine and food arc in Ghent.
By day a specialty coffee bar, Cafe Labath transitions to wine and Belgian beer by early evening at its corner near Sint-Michielsbrug in the centre.
Order: Belgian natural wine by the glass at the window seat: the light through the giant corner windows is the best.
Tip: The bar atmosphere is most relaxed Tuesday evenings; weekends fill from 19:00.
Hey Frankie operates as a natural wine bar three evenings a week near Vrijdagmarkt, with sensibly-priced natural pours and a loyally following local crowd.
Order: The cheapest glass on the natural wine list: Hey Frankie's entry-level pours are genuinely good.
Tip: Open Friday, Saturday and Sunday only; the Friday 18:00 slot is the sweet spot before the evening rush.
De Hopduvel is one of Belgium's most respected beer bottle shops, now relocated to Dok Noord with around 900 Belgian beers in stock. The shop-bar allows you.
Order: Aged Westvleteren 12: when it is in stock, buy one and drink it at the bar in the correct glass.
Tip: Open Tuesday to Saturday; the bottle selection changes when distributors deliver. Ask the staff what arrived that week.
Trefpunt is a music and theatre cafe run by the non-profit that launched the modern Ghent Festivities in 1970, hosting concerts almost every evening from 21:00.
Order: Belgian draft beer with a free Monday concert: the indie, reggae, slam and folk programming runs five nights a week.
Tip: Monday concerts are free; doors typically from 17:00 weekdays, 15:00 Friday and Saturday. Check the Trefpunt programme before walking up.
Het Spijker is a local pub set in a former granary, with a lounge on the second floor and two terraces: one facing the city centre, the other on the Leie waterside.
Order: Ghent draft beer on the back terrace overlooking the Leie at dusk: the canal view is the reason locals keep coming back.
Tip: Opens from 10:00 and closes when the last visitor leaves, often well past 02:00. The back terrace is best on warm afternoons.