Mediterranean$$$bergamotTue-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 17:00-22:00; closed Mon
Le Great Outdoor grills everything outside in the Bergamot Station yard in Santa Monica, lamb chops and tartines off open fire at long picnic tables.
Order: Blistered lamb chops and the goat cheese tartine
Tip: The kitchen is entirely open-air in the arts-centre parking lot; book Resy for dinner, walk in at lunch.
Italian$$$ocean-parkLunch Tue-Sun 11:30-14:30; dinner Tue-Thu 16:00-21:30, Fri-Sat 16:00-22:00, Sun 16:00-21:00; closed Mon
Cosetta cooks wood-fired Italian on Ocean Park Boulevard in Santa Monica, porcini-rubbed wagyu tri-tip and vodka arrabbiata shells with burrata.
Order: Pasta shells in vodka arrabbiata with burrata
Tip: Two hours of validated parking off 31st Street takes the sting out; happy hour runs 16:00-17:00 on weekdays.
Japanese$$downtownIzakaya dinner service nightly
Shirube runs a charcoal-grill izakaya on Wilshire in downtown Santa Monica, corn ribs in shoyu butter and blowtorched mackerel with most plates under 25.
Order: Shoyu butter corn ribs and the mentaiko udon
Tip: Sit at the bar for the courtside view of the charcoal grill; the mentaiko udon disappears early on weekends.
Indian$$$ocean-avenueLunch and dinner daily
Fitoor grills contemporary Indian food near the Santa Monica Pier, kebabs, kulchas and seafood from the ROOH team's fire-led Ocean Avenue kitchen.
Order: Kebabs and kulchas from the tandoor, plus the seafood plates
Tip: Founders Anu and Vikram Bhambri staff the kitchen almost entirely with chefs trained in India; the halal menu suits groups.
Italian$$$ocean-parkSun 17:00-21:00; Mon-Thu 17:30-21:00; Fri-Sat 17:30-22:00
Piccolo Ristorante hand-rolls its pasta on Lincoln Boulevard in Santa Monica, chef Antonio Mure's Venetian-leaning dinners with a deep Italian cellar.
Order: Homemade pasta of the day with a glass from the Italian list
Tip: The room is candlelit and small, better for two than six; Prosecco by the glass opens the night properly.
Pizza$$ocean-parkDaily 17:00-21:30
Ghisallo blisters Neapolitan-and-New-York-style pies on Ocean Park Boulevard in Santa Monica, with arancini, radicchio salads and a semi-hidden back patio.
Order: Squash blossom pizza in season, the diavola year-round
Tip: The back patio is the seat; squash blossom pizza when it is on, diavola otherwise. Wine list stays well priced.