Japanese$$downtownIzakaya dinner service nightly
Shirube runs a charcoal-grill izakaya on Wilshire in downtown Santa Monica, corn ribs in shoyu butter and blowtorched mackerel with most plates under 25.
Order: Shoyu butter corn ribs and the mentaiko udon
Tip: Sit at the bar for the courtside view of the charcoal grill; the mentaiko udon disappears early on weekends.
Indian$$$ocean-avenueLunch and dinner daily
Fitoor grills contemporary Indian food near the Santa Monica Pier, kebabs, kulchas and seafood from the ROOH team's fire-led Ocean Avenue kitchen.
Order: Kebabs and kulchas from the tandoor, plus the seafood plates
Tip: Founders Anu and Vikram Bhambri staff the kitchen almost entirely with chefs trained in India; the halal menu suits groups.
Italian$$$ocean-parkSun 17:00-21:00; Mon-Thu 17:30-21:00; Fri-Sat 17:30-22:00
Piccolo Ristorante hand-rolls its pasta on Lincoln Boulevard in Santa Monica, chef Antonio Mure's Venetian-leaning dinners with a deep Italian cellar.
Order: Homemade pasta of the day with a glass from the Italian list
Tip: The room is candlelit and small, better for two than six; Prosecco by the glass opens the night properly.
Pizza$$ocean-parkDaily 17:00-21:30
Ghisallo blisters Neapolitan-and-New-York-style pies on Ocean Park Boulevard in Santa Monica, with arancini, radicchio salads and a semi-hidden back patio.
Order: Squash blossom pizza in season, the diavola year-round
Tip: The back patio is the seat; squash blossom pizza when it is on, diavola otherwise. Wine list stays well priced.
Gastropub$$montana-avenueMon-Thu 17:00-22:00; Fri 12:00-23:00; Sat-Sun 12:00-22:00
Father's Office on Montana Avenue is the Santa Monica gastropub where Sang Yoon's no-substitutions Office Burger was born, backed by 36 craft taps.
Order: The Office Burger, exactly as it comes
Tip: No ketchup, no substitutions, 21-plus only; the burger comes one way and the bar means it.
Californian$$$downtownSun-Thu 17:00-21:30; Fri-Sat 17:00-22:00
Rustic Canyon is Santa Monica's farmers-market dining room on Wilshire, now cooking seasonal Mexican-Californian food a few blocks from the Wednesday market.
Order: The vegetable plates that change weekly with the market
Tip: Last seating is 21:00 most nights; the menu shifts weekly with the Arizona Avenue market haul.