The counters in Santa Monica worth queuing for: bread, pastry, and the morning ritual.
Bakery counters in Santa Monica worth queuing for: levain breads, laminated pastry, regional bakes and the morning ritual.
Huckleberry has stacked its marble counter on Wilshire Boulevard in Santa Monica since 2009, market-fruit pastries, quiche and all-day breakfast plates.
Tip: Weekday mornings are calm; weekends the line snakes by 09:30, so order the green onion and goat cheese quiche early.
Worth the queue: Maple bacon biscuit
Milo & Olive runs its wood oven from dawn bakery to late pizzeria on Wilshire in Santa Monica, garlic knots, breads and pies from the Rustic Canyon family.
Tip: The garlic knot with sea salt is non-negotiable; breakfast service turns into pizza service at 11:00 without pause.
Worth the queue: Garlic knot
Petitgrain Boulangerie laminates French croissants beside Mexican conchas on Wilshire Boulevard in Santa Monica, a two-tradition pastry case with cult queues.
Tip: There is a two-cinnamon-roll maximum per party, in person or pre-order; put your name on the list 24 hours ahead.
Worth the queue: Concha
Jyan Isaac Bread bakes deeply fermented sourdough on Ocean Park Boulevard in Santa Monica, bagel sandwiches and brunch beside the Ghisallo pizza kitchen.
Tip: Loaves sell down by early afternoon; weekend brunch adds duck confit hash and cereal milk french toast.
Worth the queue: Sourdough country loaf
Layla Bagels hand-rolls sourdough bagels daily on Ocean Park Boulevard in Santa Monica, open-face builds with seasonal fruit, honey and smoked salmon.
Tip: The Pre-Jam with seasonal fruit, cream cheese and honey is the signature; the everything loosies sell out first.
Worth the queue: Pre-Jam open-face bagel
Bread Head bakes a crackly focaccia-ciabatta hybrid daily for its Montana Avenue sandwich counter in Santa Monica, muffulettas and hot weekday specials.
Tip: Founders Jordan Snyder and Alex Williams grew it from a Main Street pop-up; the Combo Grinder is the benchmark order.
Worth the queue: Combo Grinder
Tartine Santa Monica proofs its country loaves in a converted church off Arizona Avenue, the San Francisco bakery's Westside room with a full cafe.
Tip: Morning buns and ham and Gruyere croissants go first; the bread rack restocks around midday if you miss the open.
Worth the queue: Country loaf
Bay Cities Italian Deli, family-owned since 1925, bakes and stacks the Godmother on Lincoln Boulevard in Santa Monica behind hour-long lunchtime queues.
Tip: Order the Godmother online ahead and skip the queue; it is debit or cash only and closed Monday and Tuesday.
Worth the queue: Godmother roll
Farmshop pairs a Californian brunch room with an artisan market in the Brentwood Country Mart on 26th Street in Santa Monica, bakery counter from 07:00.
Tip: The market side sells the bakery bread, cheese and prepared food to go when the brunch wait runs long.
Worth the queue: Morning pastry basket
Breakfast by Salt's Cure griddles its famous oatmeal griddle cakes on Montana Avenue in Santa Monica, a compact daytime spin-off of the original room.
Tip: Gluten-free and vegan versions of the griddle cakes exist; the counter sells the mix to take home.
Worth the queue: Oatmeal griddle cakes