OB Noodle House in San Diego is the Ocean Beach pan-Asian noodle counter on Cable Street, with tonkotsu ramen, Vietnamese banh mi and a wall-deep sake list since 2008.
Signature dishes: Tonkotsu ramen, Banh mi sandwich, Sake selection
Must order: The tonkotsu ramen with a bonus pork belly add-on; the brisket banh mi for lunch.
Tip: Wait can be long after 6pm; the Bar 1502 sister location on Niagara has shorter waits.
Address: 2218 Cable St, San Diego, CA 92107
Underbelly in Little Italy is CH Projects' ramen shop on Fir Street, the punk-rock-leaning Japanese counter where the Belly of the Beast tonkotsu ramen anchors a small-plate izakaya menu.
Signature: Belly of the beast ramen, Pork buns, Mapo tofu
Order: The Belly of the Beast ramen with extra chashu; the pork belly steamed buns to start.
Tip: Counter seating and a beer list of Japanese craft labels; arrive before 7pm to skip the line.
Lefty's Chicago Pizzeria in San Diego is the North Park Italian beef and deep-dish counter on 30th Street, the Midwest expat institution serving Chicago-style stuffed pizza since 2000.
Signature: Deep-dish stuffed pizza, Italian beef sandwich, Cheesy garlic bread
Order: A small stuffed deep-dish with sausage; the Italian beef dipped, with hot giardiniera.
Tip: Deep-dish takes 45 minutes to bake from the order; phone ahead and pick it up hot.
Pokez in San Diego is Rafael Reyes's East Village punk-rock Mexican counter since 1994, the first vegetarian and vegan Mexican kitchen in the city and the late-night skater institution downtown.
Signature: Vegan burrito, Vegetarian tacos, Chilaquiles
Order: The vegan burrito with soyrizo; the vegetarian chilaquiles in the morning.
Tip: Cash and card both fine; the room is tiny and the look is intentionally punk-western. Counter service.
Ironside Fish and Oyster in San Diego is the Little Italy raw bar from Consortium Holdings, an India Street room with a piranha-skull installation and a wide Pacific-and-East-Coast oyster list.
Signature: Oyster tower, Connecticut lobster roll, Whole grilled branzino
Order: Connecticut-style lobster roll, hot with butter; the oyster tower to share.
Tip: Happy hour at the bar runs $2 oysters Mon-Fri 3-5pm; the back patio gets sun until 7pm.
Davanti Enoteca in San Diego is Scott Harris Hospitality's Northern Italian wine bar on India Street, with house-made pasta and the rare Genoese focaccia di Recco.
Signature: Burrata with honeycomb, Cacio e pepe, Focaccia di Recco
Order: The focaccia di Recco with stracchino cheese; the cacio e pepe as the secondi.
Tip: Walk-ins are taken at the bar; book the patio for warmer nights and Saturday Mercato crowd-watching.
El Comal in San Diego is the North Park family-owned Mexican kitchen on Illinois Street, a longstanding interior-Mexican counter known for carnitas, chilaquiles and Sunday mole.
Signature: Carnitas plate, Chilaquiles, Mole Poblano
Order: The carnitas plate with handmade tortillas; weekend chilaquiles before noon.
Tip: Cash on hand speeds the counter; the courtyard patio runs warmer than the indoor room.
