Italian$$$little-italy
Davanti Enoteca in San Diego is Scott Harris Hospitality's Northern Italian wine bar on India Street, with house-made pasta and the rare Genoese focaccia di Recco.
Signature: Burrata with honeycomb, Cacio e pepe, Focaccia di Recco
Order: The focaccia di Recco with stracchino cheese; the cacio e pepe as the secondi.
Tip: Walk-ins are taken at the bar; book the patio for warmer nights and Saturday Mercato crowd-watching.
Mexican$north-park
El Comal in San Diego is the North Park family-owned Mexican kitchen on Illinois Street, a longstanding interior-Mexican counter known for carnitas, chilaquiles and Sunday mole.
Signature: Carnitas plate, Chilaquiles, Mole Poblano
Order: The carnitas plate with handmade tortillas; weekend chilaquiles before noon.
Tip: Cash on hand speeds the counter; the courtyard patio runs warmer than the indoor room.
Mexican$$gaslamp-quarter
La Puerta in San Diego is the Gaslamp Quarter Mexican kitchen on Fourth Avenue, the after-bar carne asada fries and Taco Tuesday institution that anchors downtown's late-night Mexican map.
Signature: Carne asada fries, Taco Tuesday, Margarita pitchers
Order: The carne asada fries to share; Taco Tuesday $3 tacos until close.
Tip: Open until 1am Fri-Sat, midnight other nights; the back patio runs heater-and-fan year-round.
Mexican (Chicano)$clairemont
Lolita's Mexican Food in San Diego is the Clairemont Mesa Boulevard Chicano taqueria chain founded by the Lolita Garcia family, the originator of carne asada fries in the late 1990s.
Signature: California burrito, Carne asada fries, Adobada tacos
Order: The California burrito with carne asada and fries; the carne asada fries that Lolita's claims to have invented.
Tip: Drive-through and counter both fine; the 24-hour locations stay open for the post-bar burrito run.
Mexican$mission-hills
Lucha Libre Gourmet Taco Shop in San Diego is the Mission Hills Mexican-wrestling-themed taqueria on Washington Street, the Diners Drive-Ins and Dives stop with masked-luchador decor.
Signature: Surfin' California burrito, TJ taco, Champion's burrito
Order: The Surfin' California burrito with shrimp; the Champion's gold booth if you book ahead.
Tip: Book the gold booth on the website 48 hours ahead; the line at the counter moves fast after 1pm.
Mexican (Tijuana-style)$chula-vista
Tacos El Gordo in Chula Vista is the Tijuana-style trompo taqueria on H Street and Broadway, with the city's canonical adobada al pastor sliced fresh from the vertical rotisserie.
Signature: Adobada taco, Suadero taco, Cabeza taco
Order: The adobada taco with diced onion and cilantro; the suadero for slow-braised beef.
Tip: Open until 02:00 Fri-Sat; the Broadway and H Street locations run separate queues. Cash speeds things.