Japanese ramen, izakaya$$$old-port
Pai Men Miyake on State Street opened 2009 from Chef Masa Miyake of Miyake, with tonkotsu ramen, charcoal yakitori and izakaya plates from the open bar.
Signature: Tonkotsu ramen, Yakitori, Buta no kakuni pork belly
Order: Tonkotsu ramen with the soft-boiled egg upgrade, then yakitori from the charcoal grill.
Tip: Daily lunch and dinner; reservations via OpenTable for dinner, walk-ins for lunch.
Wood-fired bagels, pizza$$woodfords-deering
The Purple House in North Yarmouth, 20 minutes from Portland, opened 2018 from Krista Desjarlais with Montreal-style wood-fired bagels and sourdough pizza.
Signature: Wood-fired Montreal-style bagels, Sourdough pizza, Egg sandwiches
Order: An everything bagel with cream cheese and house-cured gravlax, plus a pizza by the slice.
Tip: Friday to Sunday only; opens 08:00, closes when the bagels run out (usually early afternoon).
Mediterranean, mezze$$$old-port
Evo Kitchen + Bar at the Hyatt Place Old Port opened 2016, with a Mediterranean and Middle Eastern menu of wood-fired flatbreads, mezze and grilled kebabs.
Signature: Wood-fired pita, Lamb kefta, House mezze plate
Order: The full mezze plate with wood-fired pita, plus lamb kefta off the grill.
Tip: Daily from 17:00. Reservations via OpenTable; bar seats hold for walk-ins.
New England seafood$$$old-port
Boone's Fish House on Custom House Wharf reopened 2014 on the site of the 1898 original, with Maine lobster rolls, halibut and fish chowder on the deck.
Signature: Lobster roll, Pan-roasted halibut, Fish chowder
Order: The Maine lobster roll on a New England top-split bun, plus a cup of fish chowder.
Tip: Daily lunch and dinner; the deck fills early summer evenings.
New American, wood-fired$$$$old-port
Fore Street opened 1996 in a converted Old Port warehouse and built modern New England cooking around a wood oven, open hearth and turning spit.
Signature: Wood-grilled local fish, Roasted Maine mussels, Wood-fired pork loin
Order: Roasted Maine mussels in almond, garlic and vermouth from the wood oven.
Tip: Same-day walk-ins fill the bar from 17:00; book online up to two months ahead for tables.
Seafood, oyster bar$$$india-street
Eventide Oyster Co on Middle Street opened 2012 from Big Tree Hospitality, rebuilding the Maine oyster bar around a brown-butter lobster roll on a bao.
Signature: Brown butter lobster roll, Oysters on the half shell, Smoked bluefish pate
Order: The brown butter lobster roll on a Bao bun, plus a dozen oysters from the granite bar.
Tip: Walk-up only for the bar; tables open online via Resy 30 days ahead.