Peruvian$$central-phoenix
El Chullo Peruvian Restaurant on 7th Avenue is a family-run Andean and coastal room, plating ceviche, lomo saltado and anticuchos with a full bar.
Signature: Ceviche, Lomo saltado, Anticuchos
Order: The ceviche to start and lomo saltado for the table.
Tip: The 7th Avenue room is the current location; weekends bring pisco-led specials.
Sinaloan Mexican$north-phoenix
Tacos Huicho on Thunderbird Road is a Sinaloan-style taqueria known for vertical-spit al pastor, carne asada and tortas, with a busy north Phoenix taco line.
Signature: Al pastor, Carne asada tacos, Tortas
Order: Al pastor tacos carved off the trompo.
Tip: Cash-friendly and quick; the al pastor is the order, with pineapple from the spit.
Chihuahua-style Mexican$central-phoenix
Tacos Chiwas on Indian School Road is a family-run Chihuahua-style room, plating gorditas and tacos from recipes carried up from northern Mexico.
Signature: Gorditas, Tacos, Salsa bar
Order: A made-to-order gordita stuffed at the counter, plus a run at the salsa bar.
Tip: Cash and card both work; the Mesa sibling on Main Street keeps the same recipes.
Sonoran Mexican$central-phoenix
Asadero Norte de Sonora on 16th Street is a neighbourhood Sonoran grill, turning out mesquite carne asada wrapped in house-made flour tortillas.
Signature: Carne asada, House flour tortillas, Barbacoa
Order: Carne asada tacos on the giant house-made flour tortillas.
Tip: Closed Wednesdays; the grilled chicken is as good as the beef if the asada line is long.
Mexican$central-city
The Original Carolina's Mexican Food on Mohave Street has stretched its thin house flour tortillas since 1968, a Valenzuela family standard in Phoenix.
Signature: Flour tortillas, Bean burros, Red chile
Order: A bean-and-cheese burro on the tissue-thin house flour tortilla.
Tip: Buy a stack of the tortillas to take home; the line moves fast at lunch.
Soul food$$central-city
Lo-Lo's Chicken & Waffles on South Central is Larry White's soul-food flagship, the Phoenix room that built a small chain on fried chicken and waffles.
Signature: Chicken and waffles, Catfish, Mac and cheese
Order: The fried chicken and waffles, the plate that built the whole menu.
Tip: The Central Avenue flagship is the original; expect a wait at weekend breakfast.