History

The muffuletta was invented at Central Grocery on Decatur Street in 1906 by Sicilian-American Salvatore Lupo, who wanted to serve Sicilian dock workers a lunch they could eat one-handed at the counter. The round seeded loaf comes from the Sicilian muffuletta bread tradition. The olive salad is the dish; the meat is supporting cast. The sandwich travels well and tastes better at room temperature after the olive salad has soaked the bread. Central Grocery still cuts whole and half muffulettas at the original 923 Decatur counter; Cochon Butcher in the Warehouse District makes a chef's-take version with the same instinct.

Common allergens: Gluten, Dairy

Make it at home

Yield Serves 4 (one whole muffuletta)Hands-on 20 minTotal 8 hr 30 minDifficulty Easy

Ingredients

  • 1 round sesame-seeded Italian loaf, around 25cm across
  • 150g sliced mortadella
  • 150g sliced Genoa salami
  • 150g sliced cooked ham
  • 150g sliced provolone
  • 150g sliced mozzarella
  • 200g pitted green olives, chopped
  • 100g giardiniera (pickled vegetables), chopped
  • 60g pitted Kalamata olives, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 teaspoon dried oregano
  • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
  • 100ml good olive oil
  • Black pepper

Method

  1. Make the olive salad. Combine olives, giardiniera, Kalamata, garlic, oregano, vinegar and olive oil. Season with black pepper. Cover and refrigerate ideally overnight (minimum 4 hours).
  2. Split the loaf horizontally. Spread half the olive salad and its oil on the bottom cut side.
  3. Layer the mortadella, salami, ham, provolone and mozzarella in order. Top with the remaining olive salad.
  4. Close the loaf, wrap tightly in foil, press under a heavy pan or weight for at least 4 hours at room temperature (or refrigerate overnight, then return to room temp).
  5. Cut into quarters. Serve at room temperature.

Tip from the editors. The olive salad needs at least 4 hours, ideally 24, to mature in the loaf. Pressing the sandwich is non-negotiable; that is what bonds the layers.

This is the TableJourney editorial recipe, modelled on the canonical bistro / counter version. The first place to try the dish in its city of origin is below.

Where to eat muffuletta

Muffuletta in New Orleans

Central Grocery and Deli ★ 4.5

Central Grocery in New Orleans is the 1906 Decatur Street Sicilian deli that invented the muffuletta, with $13 half muffulettas built on the round seeded loaf with house olive salad.

Try: Muffuletta (half)

Tip: A half feeds one; a whole feeds two to three. Order to walk and eat in Jackson Square across the street.

Cochon Butcher ★ 4.5

Sandwiches and charcuterie$$warehouse-district

Cochon Butcher in New Orleans is the Donald Link sandwich counter and butcher case beside Cochon, with a muffuletta and Le Pig Mac that have outsold the dining room next door.

Signature: Muffuletta, Le Pig Mac

Order: The muffuletta with the house olive salad. Add the Le Pig Mac.

Tip: Lunchtime is queued; come at 11:00 or after 14:00. Same kitchen as Cochon, faster turn.

Mother's Restaurant ★ 4.2

Mother's in New Orleans is the 1938 CBD cafeteria-line lunch counter at Poydras and Tchoupitoulas, with $12 red beans and rice plates and the Ferdi Special po-boy from the menu.

Try: Red beans and rice

Tip: Lines run long; arrive 11:00 or after 14:00 for the shortest wait, the cafeteria runs fast at the counter.

Killer Poboys at Erin Rose ★ 4.5

Until Fri Sat kitchen until 24:00

Killer Poboys in New Orleans is the back-of-Erin-Rose Conti Street po-boy counter, with chef-driven po-boys running Friday and Saturday kitchens to midnight and the bar to 04:00.

Try: Rum-glazed pork belly po-boy

Tip: Friday and Saturday kitchen runs to midnight; the bar runs to 04:00, frozen Irish coffee is the bar order.

More cities are in research. Want muffuletta covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.

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