A crawfish boil is sacks of live Louisiana mudbugs boiled with corn, potatoes, lemon, garlic and a Cajun spice mix, then dumped onto newspaper-lined tables in pyramid heaps. Peel-and-eat, no plates.
The crawfish boil came out of Acadian Louisiana's bayou country in the 19th century, when Cajun fishermen pulled freshwater crawfish from the swamp and boiled them in cast-iron pots over open flame. The dish moved into commercial restaurants by the 1950s; Peche Seafood Grill, Cochon and Acme Oyster House run seasonal boil menus from January through July, peaking March through May. Louisiana now harvests 90 to 100 million pounds of crawfish a year. The tabletop-dump-and-peel ritual is half the experience; the rule is no plates, no forks, only paper towels and beer.
Peche in New Orleans is Ryan Prewitt, Stephen Stryjewski and Donald Link's James Beard winning Gulf seafood room on Magazine and Julia, with a wood-fired.
OrderThe smoked tuna dip to start, then a whole grilled fish to share for the table.
TipThe bar walks in best at 17:30; the kitchen sends the same menu and the oyster service is tighter.
Cochon in New Orleans is Donald Link and Stephen Stryjewski's James Beard winning Cajun room on Tchoupitoulas, an ode to whole-hog cookery in a converted.
OrderThe cochon with turnips and cracklins. Then the rabbit and dumplings.
TipCochon Butcher around the corner sells the same charcuterie at a counter; cheaper and equally good for lunch.
Acme Oyster House in New Orleans is the 1910 Iberville Street oyster bar between Bourbon and Royal, with char-grilled oysters and a shucker counter rebuilt.
OrderA dozen char-grilled oysters with garlic butter and Parmesan.
TipWalk-in only and a queue is the norm; aim for 11:00 open or after 21:00 for shortest waits.
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