Light Years in Houston is the Montrose natural-wine bar on West Alabama Street in a converted craftsman bungalow, with skin-contact pours, small plates.
Signature pour: Skin-contact whites by the glass
Wine focus: Natural wines and orange-skin-contact pours
Food: Small plates with seasonal Gulf ingredients
Tip: Sit at the bar to talk through the list. The kitchen runs late; bring an order of bread and cheese.
13 Celsius in Houston is the Midtown wine bar on Caroline Street in a 1932 cleaners building, with European old-world pours, cheese boards and a candlelit.
Signature pour: Old-vine Spanish Garnacha
Wine focus: European old-world by the glass and bottle
Food: Cheese, charcuterie, snack menu
Tip: Sit at the back banquette under the brick wall. The cheese board with house-made membrillo is the order to anchor a flight.