Mexican tacos$montrose
Tacos Tierra Caliente in Houston is the long-running taco truck on West Alabama in Montrose, with al pastor sliced from the trompo and an ice house next door.
Signature: Tacos al pastor, Carne asada tacos
Order: Three al pastor tacos with pineapple. The carne asada. A Mexican Coke and a side of consomme.
Tip: The truck is parked next to the West Alabama Ice House; bring your tacos inside for a beer. Cash and card.
Creole fried chicken$third-ward
Frenchy's Chicken on Scott Street in Houston is Percy Creuzot's 1969 Third Ward Creole fried chicken counter, two blocks from Texas Southern University and a Houston Sunday tradition.
Signature: Creole fried chicken, Dirty rice
Order: Three-piece dark meat with dirty rice and red beans. A peach cobbler to close.
Tip: Sunday after church is the line. Weekday lunch is the move. The Scott Street counter is the original; multiple satellites exist.
New American$$$montrose
Bludorn in Houston is Aaron Bludorn's New American room on Taft Street since 2020, with a lobster pot pie and Gulf-seafood menu that defined Montrose's tasting-menu corridor.
Signature: Lobster pot pie, Whole branzino
Order: The lobster pot pie. It is the dish that put the room on every national list and never came off.
Tip: Book three weeks out for a Friday or Saturday. Bar seats open up at 5pm if you walk in early.
Modern Mediterranean$$$$montrose
March in Houston is the Goodnight Hospitality tasting-menu room on Westheimer Road from chef Felipe Riccio, with six- or nine-course menus rooted in one Mediterranean region per season.
Signature: Six- and nine-course tasting menus rooted in one Mediterranean region per season
Order: The full nine-course menu. Anything less misses the regional arc.
Tip: The wine pairings (June Rodil curates) are unusually well-judged. Take them.
Modern American bistro$$$eado
Theodore Rex in Houston is Justin Yu's bistro on Nance Street, the warmer sequel to his now-closed Oxheart, with a tomato toast and seasonal blackboard menu that locals book first.
Signature: Tomato toast, Pork chop with grits
Order: The tomato toast in summer. The pork chop with grits the rest of the year.
Tip: The bar is walk-in only and the best seat. Get there at 5pm Thursday or Sunday.
Oaxacan Mexican$$$downtown
Xochi in Houston is Hugo Ortega's Oaxacan room on the ground floor of the Marriott Marquis downtown, with seven moles, masa-based tlayudas and a James Beard chef behind it all.
Signature: Mole negro, Tlayuda
Order: The mole negro tasting; seven moles in one flight is the menu's defining gesture.
Tip: Sit at the masa bar to watch the corn pressed fresh. The lunch tasting is the value at $48.