New AmericanChef Justin Yu$$$$$70 to $110 a la carteBook 2 to 3 weeks ahead
Theodore Rex in Houston is Justin Yu's Nance Street bistro, a Michelin-recommended relaxed fine-dining room, a sequel to his closed Oxheart with a tomato.
Order: Tomato toast in summer. Whatever is on the blackboard with stone fruit in late summer.
Tip: Bar is walk-in and the best seat. Arrive at opening, 5pm Thursday through Monday.
JapaneseChef Tyson Cole$$$$Omakase $150 to $200Book 2 to 3 weeks ahead
Uchi Houston is Tyson Cole's James Beard-winning Japanese room in Montrose since 2012, with hama chili, untraditional sushi and one of the city's strongest.
Order: Sit at the sushi bar and order omakase off-menu. If a la carte, hama chili and maguro-and-goat-cheese.
Tip: Sushi happy hour 5 to 6:30pm Sunday to Thursday is the city's best deal. Bar seats only.
MexicanChef Hugo Ortega$$$$Tasting menu $115, a la carte $60 to $90Book 2 to 3 weeks ahead
Xochi in Houston is Hugo Ortega's Oaxacan dining room at the Marriott Marquis downtown, a James Beard winner with seven moles, a tasting menu and a masa bar.
Order: Mole tasting flight. The chichilo (one of the harder moles). House-made tlayuda.
Tip: Lunch tasting at $48 is the value entry. Sit at the masa bar to watch the corn ground fresh.
SteakhouseChef Pappas family$$$$$80 to $180 a la carteBook 2 weeks ahead
Pappas Bros Steakhouse Downtown is the Houston steakhouse on McKinney Street with a 4,000-bottle James Beard outstanding wine program, dry-aged ribeyes.
Order: 28-day dry-aged bone-in ribeye. Creamed spinach. Ask the sommelier for a glass of older Bordeaux.
Tip: The wine list is unrivalled in the city. The Galleria-area location on Westheimer serves the same menu but with a busier room.
SteakhouseChef Ronnie Killen$$$$$80 to $200 a la carteBook 4 to 6 weeks Saturday ahead
Killen's Steakhouse in Pearland is Ronnie Killen's white-tablecloth steakhouse on West Broadway, with a 1,200-bottle wine tower, 44-Farms wagyu and dry-aged.
Order: The bone-in ribeye, dry-aged. Le Cordon Bleu mashed potatoes. The wagyu flight when offered.
Tip: Pearland is south of downtown Houston; 25 minutes drive. The bar serves the full menu and is easier than the dining room.
Cajun & CreoleChef Brennan family$$$$$70 to $120 a la carteBook 1 to 2 weeks ahead
Brennan's of Houston is the 1967 Texas Creole dining room on Smith Street, the New Orleans Brennan family's Houston outpost, with turtle soup.
Order: Turtle soup with sherry. Bananas Foster, flambeed tableside, to close. Pecan-crusted Gulf fish at dinner.
Tip: Sunday jazz brunch is the local routine. Reserve the courtyard if the temperature stays under 30C.