Sushi$$$$ala-moana
Sushi Sasabune in Ala Moana Honolulu is the omakase-only sushi counter chef Seiji Kumagawa opened in 1996, building its Hawaii-mae style around as much local fish as possible.
Signature: Omakase nigiri course, Local Hawaiian fish
Order: There is no menu, only omakase. Trust the counter; the Hawaiian fish sequence is the point.
Tip: Six-seat counter, parties of six max. No substitutions, no soy on the rice; the chef directs every bite.
Japanese izakaya$$$ala-moana
Sushi Izakaya Gaku on South King is the long-running Japanese izakaya in Honolulu with sashimi, robata grill plates and the cult-favourite buta no kakuni pork belly.
Signature: Daily sashimi, Buta no kakuni, Izakaya small plates
Order: The chef's sashimi selection and the buta no kakuni braised pork.
Tip: Reservations open one month ahead. Order the day's specials board first; chef cuts the best fish for early diners.
Hawaiian$$kalihi
Helena's Hawaiian Food on North School Street has served traditional Hawaiian plates in Kalihi Honolulu since 1946, now run by the founder's grandson Craig Katsuyoshi.
Signature: Pipikaula short ribs, Kalua pig, Butterfish collar
Order: Pipikaula short ribs, butterfish collar and a side of poi.
Tip: Tuesday to Friday, 10:00 to 19:30, cash and card. Closed Saturday and Sunday; arrive by 17:00 for the full board.
Hawaiian$$kakaako
Highway Inn Kakaako is the 2013 Honolulu outpost of the Toguchi family's 1947 Waipahu original, serving the same kalua pork, laulau and combo plates inside the SALT block of Kakaako.
Signature: Kalua pork plate, Laulau, Poi
Order: The kalua pork combo with laulau and poi.
Tip: Free parking with validation, ninety minutes. Lunch wait shortens after 13:00.
Local Hawaiian$$ala-moana
Side Street Inn Ala Moana is the 1992 Hopaka Street original in Honolulu from the late Colin Nishida, the off-duty chef pupu room behind Ala Moana Center where pan-fried pork chops and kim chee fried rice built the cult following.
Signature: Pan-fried pork chops, Kim chee fried rice, Pupu plates
Order: The pan-fried pork chops and the kim chee fried rice.
Tip: Group-friendly portions; come with at least four. Mon to Fri from 16:00, weekends from 12:00, until 20:30.
Japanese udon$waikiki
Marukame Udon Waikiki in Honolulu is the theatre-kitchen Sanuki udon counter on Kuhio Avenue where you watch handcut noodles boiled to order and finished with tempura sides.
Signature: Kake udon, Niku udon, Tempura sides
Order: Niku udon with a sweet beef topping and a kakiage tempura on the side.
Tip: Queue snakes down Kuhio but moves fast. Average bowl is around $6 to $8; cash and card both work.