Noodles stretched by hand to order: Lanzhou beef noodle soup at Hana Noodles in DeKalb Market Hall, and chewy stir-fried lagman at Kashkar Cafe in Brighton Beach.

Lamian, or pulled noodles, are handmade Chinese wheat noodles made by twisting, stretching and folding dough into strands. The earliest description of the pulling technique is in a dietary manual of 1504 by Song Xu of the Ming dynasty. Hana Noodles brings Lanzhou-style hand-pulled noodles to DeKalb Market Hall and lists a classic Lan Zhou beef noodle soup. At Kashkar Cafe, the hand-pulled bosu lagman is thick, chewy noodles fried until some are soft and some slightly charred.

Where to eat Hand-pulled noodles in Brooklyn

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Make it at home

Serves Serves 2 to 32 hrAdvanced

Ingredients

  • 500 g all-purpose or bread flour
  • 250 g water
  • 5 g kosher salt
  • 5 g food-grade alkaline (penghui or kansui) mixed with 15 g water
  • Neutral oil for the counter and your hands
  • Extra flour for dusting
  • Salted water for boiling

Method

  1. Mix the flour and salt, mound it on the counter, make a crater, and pour in the water a little at a time, scraping flour in until a dough forms.
  2. Knead until nearly smooth, wrap, and rest at least 45 minutes.
  3. Bring a pot of salted water to a boil. Knuckle-stretch and fold the dough for 5 to 10 minutes, working in about half of the alkaline solution, until it droops and no longer springs back.
  4. Roll the dough out in a long log with both palms and fold it over on itself 7 to 8 times, pulling each time to about 2 feet.
  5. Oil the counter, roll the dough into an even log, trim the ends, and cut it into two portions. Cover and rest 5 minutes.
  6. Dust a portion with flour, hold both ends, pull about 2 feet and loop it back, and keep pulling the strands from the center of the loop.
  7. Boil the noodles for about 20 seconds, drain, and serve in hot broth.

Editor tip. Alkaline solutions can burn skin and eyes, so measure carefully and wash your hands; kansui works if you cannot find penghui.

Common allergens: Gluten.