A thick, airy rectangle with a crisp bottom, cut into squares. L&B Spumoni Gardens in Bensonhurst is the landmark, Luigi's sells $4 squares and Williamsburg Pizza bakes grandma pies.
L&B Spumoni Gardens dates its 86th Street location to 1939, when it began as a pushcart, and its pillowy square pies are sold by the slice; slices come plain, and toppings need a whole pie. Grandma pizza, the home-oven cousin, is a thin square pie popularized on Long Island, and Williamsburg Pizza sells its grandma pies square only.