A board of proper West Country cheddar with bread, pickle, apple and cider on the side, eaten in Bristol's pubs within sight of the county that gave the cheese its name.

Cheddar cheese takes its name from the Somerset gorge village 45 minutes south of Bristol, where cheesemakers matured wheels in the caves from at least the 1100s. The ploughman's lunch as a pub fixture is a 20th-century invention, but Bristol sits closer to the source than any other big city, and its cheesemongers and micropubs treat cave-aged cheddar with the seriousness other cities save for wine.

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