Shredded lamb neck and rice in a garlic and pepper broth built on marrow bones, ladled over the top so it is served scalding. This is the Gaziantep breakfast that starts before dawn.
Beyran is the reason the bazaar counters of Gaziantep open at five in the morning. The broth takes ten to thirteen hours, meat and marrowbones simmered overnight so the lamb pulls apart, and each bowl is finished to order with rice, garlic and hot pepper paste. Metanet Lokantası, trading since 1975 and still run by Mustafa Hasırcı, is the address most closely tied to it, and the kitchen sells until the pot is empty rather than until a closing time. Locals eat it as a first meal and treat mid-morning as late. The dish has since travelled across Türkiye, but the early start has not travelled with it.
Sakıp Usta serves beyran and paça on Kemal Köker Caddesi in Gaziantep from 05:30 until the small hours, which covers both the dawn bowl and the late one.
OrderBeyran at midnight, when the second pot comes up.
TipThe kitchen runs from 05:30 to 02:00, so this is the one beyran counter that suits either end of the day.
Discover Gaziantep’s history, art, and cuisine on a guided tour. Visit the Zeugma Mosaic Museum, taste local street food, and explore the city’s vibrant streets.
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