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Tip: Arrive before 10:00 to beat the day-tour boats from Phuket, and check the bill on set menus, which run well above what locals pay.

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Koh Yao Noi ★ 4.3

Koh Yao Noi sits in Phang Nga Bay a short boat ride from Phuket, with stilted seafood houses over the mangroves and family kitchens cooking the day's catch.

TipRent a motorbike to hop between the west-coast seafood houses for a late lunch; it is a Muslim island, and many local restaurants sell no alcohol.

Khao Lak (Bang Niang Market) ★ 3.8

Khao Lak's Bang Niang Market, a drive north of Phuket, sets out a couple of hundred stalls four afternoons a week, famous for its pork ribs and khao mok gai.

TipIt trades Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday only, from 14:00; come in the late afternoon for the fullest spread of food stalls.

Krabi Town markets ★ 3.8

Krabi Town, across the bay from Phuket, eats at its markets: roti with curry at the Maharaj morning market, then stalls on the weekend walking street.

TipBe at the Maharaj fresh market between 06:00 and 08:00 before the best stalls sell out, and bring small notes; most stalls take cash only.

Takua Pa Old Town ★ 4.4

Takua Pa Old Town is Phuket's tin-mining twin up the coast: a Sino-Portuguese street whose morning market serves Hokkien dim sum and khanom buang from 05:00.

TipGo on a Sunday: eat the morning market before 08:30, then stay for the evening walking street along the old shophouse roads.

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