What is in season in San Sebastián. and what to order when the market changes.
Spring
- Perretxikos (St George's mushrooms): Calocybe gambosa from the Basque mountain meadows; the spring mushroom revuelto everyone waits for.
- Spring anchoa from Getaria: Cantabrian anchoa fresca, line-caught from Getaria; salt-cured and re-fileted by hand on a six-month aging cycle.
- Sagardo (txotx cider season): The Basque cider house ritual: shout 'txotx', catch a stream from the barrel, drink, repeat. Astigarraga is the canonical destination.
Summer
- Bonito del norte: Line-caught albacore from the Bay of Biscay, brought ashore at Bermeo, Getaria and Pasaia; the white-tuna ventresca counter.
- Chipirones en su tinta: Tiny squid (chipirones) in their own black ink, with onion and rice; the high-summer Basque small plate.
- Semana Grande pintxos week: San Sebastian's eight-day August festival with fireworks; pintxos bars extend hours and run special seasonal plates.
Autumn
- Hongos (boletus) and mushroom counter: Boletus edulis from the Pyrenees and Sierra de Aralar; Ganbara's tap-counter sets the city standard.
- Txuleta from old cow: Dry-aged old-cow (vaca vieja) ribeye over oak embers; cooler months mean longer aging and bigger fat caps.
- Kokotxas al pil pil: Hake throat (kokotxas) emulsified with garlic and olive oil; the Basque coast's signature gelatine-rich dish.
Winter
- Txangurro (spider crab): Centollo (spider crab) baked with its own meat, tomato and brandy in the shell; the canonical Basque Christmas dish.
- Angulas (baby eels): Tiny baby eels (Anguila Anguilla glass eels) sauteed with garlic and chili; Aginaga, just outside San Sebastian, is the Basque elver capital.
- Tamborrada: Midnight-to-midnight drum parade; 28,000 drummers, the entire Old Town turns into a feast.