Bacalao al pil pil is a Bilbao invention: salt cod slow-cooked in olive oil with garlic and dried chili, then emulsified by shaking the pan until the gelatin and oil form a thick yellow sauce that coats each piece.
Where to eat it: 6 restaurants across 2 cities.
Bacalao al pil pil traces to mid-19th-century Bilbao, when merchant Simon Gurtubay over-ordered salt cod from Norway in 1836. Forced to sell the surplus, Bilbao kitchens developed the slow-emulsified sauce technique that made the dish a city staple. The pil pil name imitates the bubbling sound of the slow simmer. Casa Rufo, La Despensa de Etxanobe and Mina all run versions; the deep-yellow emulsion is the test, as the gelatin from the cod skin must bind with the oil into a thick sauce without breaking.
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Common allergens: Fish
Tip from the editors. If the sauce does not emulsify, strain off most of the oil and whisk a tablespoon back in at a time, working from a small base.
Casa Rufo on Hurtado de Amezaga in Bilbao since 1955 grills the canonical Bilbao txuleta over open flame, between deli counter and dining room.
OrderThe txuleta from the grill; the bacalao al pil pil as the starter.
TipLunch 13:30-16:00, dinner 20:30-23:00; closed Sundays. The deli counter is worth a look.
La Despensa in Bilbao is Etxanobe's Michelin-Guide bistro side beside the Atelier, with a Bilbao tasting menu and traditional Basque a la carte plates.
Book1 week ahead
Mina has held one Michelin star since 2013 for Alvaro Garrido's modern-Basque tasting menu, now a 25-cover Indautxu room on Calle Ercilla. Family-friendly.
Book2-3 weeks ahead
Bar Charly on Plaza Nueva in Bilbao since 1973 keeps a traditional Casco Viejo pintxo counter with bacalao croquettes, bonito and the gilda.
TryPintxo gilda, bacalao croquette
Casa Vergara on Calle Mayor in San Sebastian's Old Town since 1948 turns out the bacalao al pil pil pintxo for under 4 euros, the canonical budget bite.
TryBacalao al pil pil pintxo with a glass of Txakoli
TipTerrace fills first; the pintxo plus Txakoli is under 6 euros.
Bodegon Alejandro on Fermin Calbeton in San Sebastian is the underground Old Town room where Martin Berasategui won his first Michelin star in 1986.
OrderThe merluza a la donostiarra in cazuela and the txuleta from the grill; finish with the burnt-top cheesecake.
TipBook the 14:00 lunch slot for the calmer service. The staircase entry is easy to miss; the door is set below street level.
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