Across the river, the state capital. Cathedral Hill, Lowertown's Saturday market, Como's Italian rooms and Hmongtown Marketplace. Editorially essential to the Twin Cities table.
Ann Ahmed's Lat14 in Golden Valley runs refined Southeast Asian cooking in the Twin Cities since 2017. James Beard semifinalist; menu maps the 14th latitude.
Signature: Salt-baked branzino, Wagyu yum nua
Order: Salt-baked branzino with green nam jim and the Wagyu yum nua.
Tip: Sunday lunch family-style is the easy seat. Book three weeks out for Friday or Saturday dinner.
Russell Klein's Meritage in downtown Saint Paul runs the Twin Cities' defining French bistro since 2007. Beard semifinalist; an oyster bar through happy hour.
Signature: Coq au vin, Steak frites
Order: Coq au vin with mashed potatoes and the steak frites au poivre.
Tip: Oyster happy hour 16:00 to 18:00 in the bar, three for $9. Book the dining room a week out.
The Lexington on Grand Avenue has run Saint Paul's old-school supper club since 1935. Renovated by Jack Riebel in 2017; walleye, prime rib, Manhattans.
Signature: Walleye, Prime rib
Order: Walleye with brown butter and the prime rib Friday or Saturday only.
Tip: Book a booth in the Library Room. Friday and Saturday prime-rib runs out by 21:00.
Travail in Robbinsdale has run a theatrical tasting room in the Twin Cities since 2010. The casual Pig Ate My Pizza sister-room sits next door.
Signature: Tasting menu, Bubbles bar
Order: The full tasting menu; let the kitchen pick. Pair with the bubbles flight.
Tip: Tickets sell on Tock; release windows are tight. Pig Ate My Pizza next door is the walk-in alternative.
Travail in Robbinsdale has run a theatrical multi-course tasting in the Twin Cities since 2010. Beard finalist with the Pig Ate My Pizza sister room next door.
Ann Ahmed's Lat14 in Golden Valley runs refined Southeast Asian dining in the Twin Cities since 2017. James Beard semifinalist along the 14th latitude.
Russell Klein's Meritage in downtown Saint Paul runs the Twin Cities' French bistro at the fine-dining tier since 2007. James Beard semifinalist with an oyster bar.
Punch Neapolitan Pizza on Grand Avenue has fired Vera Pizza Napoletana pies in the Twin Cities since 1996. The first Italy-certified pizzeria in the Midwest.
Signature: Margherita pizza, Toto pizza
Order: The Margherita pizza and the Toto with prosciutto and arugula.
Tip: Walk-ins only; wait list moves fast. Nine Twin Cities locations spread the load.
El Burrito Mercado on Cesar Chavez Street has run a Mexican grocery and counter in Saint Paul's West Side since 1979. Carnitas, tamales, the cafeteria-style counter.
Signature: Carnitas, Tamales
Order: Carnitas plate with rice and beans and a hand-rolled tamale.
Tip: Front grocery sells pan dulce; counter at the back. Sunday brunch buffet runs $14.
Izzy's Ice Cream on Marshall Avenue has run a small-batch ice cream counter in Saint Paul since 2000. The Izzy scoop, a tiny extra flavour on top of any cone.
Signature: Two-scoop Izzy
Order: A two-scoop cone plus an Izzy scoop of salted caramel.
Tip: Summer line wraps around the block by 19:00. Solar-powered scoop shop and the second location in Minnehaha is faster.
Quixotic Coffee on Cleveland Avenue has run a Saint Paul specialty cafe in Highland Park since 2011. Local milk, Belgian-syrup mochas, third-wave-coffee anchor.
Signature drink: Mocha
Kopplin's Coffee on Hamline Avenue has run a Saint Paul third-wave coffee bar in Macalester-Groveland since 2008. Hand-pulled espresso; rotating roasters monthly.
Signature drink: Cortado
Claddagh Coffee on West 7th Street has run a Saint Paul Irish-style cafe since 2008. Soda bread, scones, Irish breakfast plates and a corner-house atmosphere.
Signature drink: Latte
Honey and Rye Bakehouse on Excelsior Boulevard has run a Saint Louis Park bakery in the Twin Cities since 2013. Levain country loaves and laminated pastries.
Worth the queue: Country loaf
Quixotic Coffee on Cleveland Avenue has roasted specialty beans in Saint Paul since 2011. Cup-of-Excellence greens; Belgian-syrup mochas at the cafe.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Honduras, Guatemala
How they serve: Espresso, Pour over, Whole bean retail
Kopplin's Coffee on Hamline Avenue has worked as a multi-roaster cafe in Saint Paul since 2008. Rotating monthly roasters; hand-pulled espresso, hard-to-find beans.
Sources from: Ethiopia, Kenya, Panama
How they serve: Espresso, Pour over
Wine Thief and Ale Jail on Saint Clair Avenue has run a Saint Paul wine bar in Highland Park since 2014. Twenty by-the-glass wines plus cheese and charcuterie.
Signature pour: Champagne
Wine focus: Eclectic by the glass
Food: Cheese, charcuterie
Sweet Martha's Cookie Jar at the Minnesota State Fair has scooped warm chocolate-chip cookies in the Twin Cities since 1979. Buckets overflowing.
Try: Bucket of warm chocolate-chip cookies
Pronto Pups on the Minnesota State Fair grounds has fried cornmeal-battered hot dogs in the Twin Cities since 1947. The original Minnesota corn dog.
Try: Cornmeal-battered hot dog on a stick
Hmongtown Marketplace on Como Avenue in Saint Paul packs dozens of Hmong food counters in the Twin Cities since 2004. Papaya salad pounded to order, sai oua sausage.
Try: Hmong sausage, papaya salad
El Burrito Mercado on Cesar Chavez Street has run a Mexican grocery and cafeteria in Saint Paul's West Side since 1979. Carnitas and tamales.
Try: Mexican carnitas plates
Surly Brewing on Malcolm Avenue has run a destination brewery and beer hall in Minneapolis since 2014. The Furious IPA and Bender brown ale; cathedral-scale taproom.
Summit Brewing on Montreal Circle has poured Saint Paul craft beer in the Twin Cities since 1986. Minnesota's flagship craft EPA on every tap line.
Hmongtown Marketplace on Como Avenue has run the country's largest Hmong-owned market in Saint Paul since 2004. Dozens of food counters, fresh produce.
Saint Paul Farmers' Market in Lowertown has run a weekend produce market in the Twin Cities since 1853. The country's second-oldest still-operating farmers market.
The Minnesota State Fair on Snelling Avenue draws 1.8 million visitors over 12 days ending Labor Day. The Great Minnesota Get-Together; the country's largest state fair by daily attendance.
Tip: New foods announced every July. Sweet Martha's and Pronto Pups are the unmissable stands. Park-and-ride buses from anywhere in the Twin Cities.
Cooks of Crocus Hill on Grand Avenue has run cooking classes in the Twin Cities since 1979. The kitchen-supply shop's classroom; pasta and French workshops.
Cooks of Crocus Hill's Knife Skills class on Grand Avenue has run cutlery technique in the Twin Cities since 1980. The classic foundation course; 2.5-hour evening session.
Surly Brewing's Beer School at the Malcolm Avenue brewhouse has run home-brewing classes in Minneapolis since 2015. Surly's brewers teach pairing and home-brew fundamentals.
Punch Neapolitan on Grand Avenue has fired 90-second pizzas in the Twin Cities since 1996. Margherita lands at $11; nine locations spread the lunch crowd thin.
Try: Margherita pizza
El Burrito Mercado on Cesar Chavez Street has run a Mexican cafeteria in Saint Paul's West Side since 1979. Carnitas, beans and rice under twelve, Sunday buffet at $14.
Try: Carnitas plate
Brunson's Pub in Saint Paul runs East Side weekend brunch on Payne Avenue, with scratch biscuits, Lovejoy's Bloody Marys and a tight 19-tap beer list.
Order: Lovejoy's Bloody Mary alongside the scratch biscuits and gravy.
Tip: The Payne Avenue patio is the spring through autumn pick; the full pub menu runs alongside brunch and the kitchen serves until 10pm weekdays.
Cafe Latte in Saint Paul runs the Grand Avenue cafeteria-and-bakery hybrid since 1985, with scratch soups, salads, the turtle cake and a wine bar upstairs.
Order: The turtle cake plus the daily soup-and-salad combo from the line.
Tip: The wine bar upstairs opens late afternoon and seats walk-ins; bakery counter is the pre-noon pick for a turtle cake or a scone.
Egg and I in Saint Paul runs the University Avenue classic-breakfast counter since 1991, with eggs Florentine, scratch hash browns and biscuits with gravy.
Order: The Eggs Florentine with hash browns and a side of biscuits and gravy.
Tip: Saturday before 9am is the only time you walk in without a wait; closes daily at 2pm sharp with no dinner service.