Edinburgh's seaside neighbourhood. Bross Bagels' original counter, Tribe Porty's brunch, the High Street fish bars and the promenade at the Firth of Forth.
Fort and Field on Portobello High Street in Edinburgh, opened 2024, a wood-fired neighbourhood kitchen on the seaside running open-fire grill plates.
Order: The flat-iron steak from the woodfire and the charred hispi cabbage with anchovy butter.
Tip: The wood-fired pizza Wednesday is a half-price deal and the local crowd shows up early.
Bross Bagels on Portobello High Street in Edinburgh, opened 2017, a Montreal-style bagel bakery hand-rolling and wood-firing its bagels daily, with NYC-deli.
Tip: The Portobello flagship is the original; queues form by 10:00 on weekends. Leith Walk branch is quieter on Saturday mornings.
Worth the queue: Smoked salmon and cream cheese bagel