Day-by-day eating plans for Penang. weekend classics, family routes, vegan plans, on-a-budget editions.

Day-by-day plans

Penang hawker weekend: the classics, done properly ★ 4.6

First-time visitor, two days2 days

Two days built around the canon: charcoal char koay teow, Air Itam assam laksa, a kopitiam breakfast, night hawkers on New Lane and a midnight nasi kandar.

  1. Day 1: Saturday: kopitiam morning, Siam Road afternoon, New Lane night

    Morning
    Toh Soon Cafe from 08:00 for charcoal toast, half-boiled eggs and white coffee in the Campbell Street alley, then browse Chowrasta Market's jeruk stalls.
    Afternoon
    Join the Siam Road Char Koay Teow queue before 12:00 for the charcoal wok, then walk to Lebuh Keng Kwee for a cendol at Penang Road Famous Teochew Chendul.
    Evening
    New Lane Hawker Centre from 18:00: work the chee cheong fun and koay kak carts, then finish with the braised chicken feet at Super Star Koay Teow Soup on Kimberley Street.

  2. Day 2: Sunday: Air Itam pilgrimage, laksa lunch, midnight nasi kandar

    Morning
    Bus or ride to Air Itam Market under Kek Lok Si temple; eat your way along the market lanes and climb to the temple before the heat builds.
    Afternoon
    Back in town, a bowl at Penang Road Famous Laksa on Lebuh Keng Kwee, then Air Itam Duck Rice from 15:30 if you stayed near the temple side.
    Evening
    End at Line Clear Nasi Kandar off Jalan Penang: it never closes, so go late, point at three curries and ask for the rice banjir, flooded.

Three days deeper: Nyonya tables, night woks, one splurge ★ 4.4

Returning visitor or slow traveller, three days3 days

A slower loop through Peranakan dining rooms, Little India, the Presgrave Street night stalls, the cocktail row on Jalan Gurdwara and one tasting-menu splurge.

  1. Day 1: Heritage core: dim sum, Tek Sen, kueh and a speakeasy

    Morning
    Dim sum at Tho Yuen on Campbell Street before 09:00, when the baskets are still coming out; walk it off along Lebuh Chulia's shophouses.
    Afternoon
    Lunch at Tek Sen for the double-roasted pork, then Nyonya kueh at Moh Teng Pheow's workshop canteen off Lebuh Chulia.
    Evening
    Dinner at Kebaya Dining Room's 18:00 seating, then find the clothing-store door of Backdoor Bodega on Jalan Gurdwara for a nightcap.

  2. Day 2: Little India to Presgrave Street

    Morning
    Roti canai banjir at the Transfer Road stall before 11:00; it has no signboard, so follow the queue on Jalan Transfer.
    Afternoon
    Little India: a vegetarian banana-leaf spread at Woodlands Vegetarian Restaurant and hot parcels from Penang Famous Samosa on Lebuh Queen.
    Evening
    South to Lebuh Presgrave for 888 Hokkien Mee's prawn broth, then back up to Good Friends Club for a Laksa Negroni.

  3. Day 3: Slow morning, ChinaHouse cakes, tasting-menu night

    Morning
    Brunch at Norm Micro Roastery on Church Street Ghaut: house-roast filter coffee and whatever the kitchen is plating that week.
    Afternoon
    Walk the ChinaHouse passage from Beach Street to Victoria Street and pick from the thirty-cake counter; the tiramisu is the classic.
    Evening
    The splurge: Gēn's tasting menu of Malaysian produce on Church Street Ghaut. Book weeks ahead; it seats Wednesday to Sunday.
← Back to Penang food guide