Trash and Chic ★ 4.0
$$MestreSelected Saturdays Sep to May, doors 23:30
Trash and Chic has run as Venice's longest standing LGBTQ pop up since 2006, currently using the Molocinque warehouse in Marghera two or three Saturdays a month from September through May, with drag, dancers and a mixed Veneto crowd that travels in.
Tip: Check the Facebook page for the dated calendar; the venue is Molocinque most months but the event also travels to Padova. Cab back to historic Venice is the only late option.
Caffè Florian ★ 4.6
$$$$San MarcoDaily 09:00 to 24:00
Caffè Florian has run under the Procuratie Nuove of Piazza San Marco since 1720, the oldest continuously operating cafe in Italy, with the resident Caffè Florian Concerto Orchestra playing every evening on the square from spring through autumn.
Tip: The orchestra surcharge is six euros per drink when the band plays; sit at an outside table for the music, the inside salon is cheaper but mute. Closed days in low winter for the orchestra.
Gran Caffè Quadri ★ 4.4
$$$$San MarcoDaily 09:00 to 24:00
Gran Caffè Quadri has anchored the Procuratie Vecchie side of Piazza San Marco since 1775, founded by the Corfiote merchant Giorgio Quadri, with the resident 121 St Mark's Band playing on the square from April through late October.
Tip: The terrace tables sit directly across from the basilica; the orchestra plays through aperitivo and dinner. A spritz with the music surcharge runs around twenty euros total.
Al Timon ★ 4.4
$$CannaregioDaily 18:00 to 01:00
Al Timon anchors the Cannaregio aperitivo strip on Fondamenta degli Ormesini, with a tight inside counter, sidewalk tables on the fondamenta and two wooden boats tied to the canal that the bar invites guests to sit on through the warm months.
Tip: The boats are the seat to get on a summer night; they fill by 19:30. Natural wine list by the glass, cicchetti at the counter, no reservation.
Vino Vero ★ 4.5
$$CannaregioMon 16:00 to 24:00, Tue-Sun 11:00 to 24:00, Fri-Sat to 01:00
Vino Vero opened on Fondamenta della Misericordia in Cannaregio in 2014 with one of the deepest natural wine lists in Italy, a tight cicchetti bar and a canal side crowd that holds the fondamenta past midnight through the warm months.
Tip: Ask for a Friulano or Soave off the natural list; the by the glass rotation is the deal. The fondamenta outside is the room past 22:00 in summer.
Cantinone già Schiavi ★ 4.5
$DorsoduroMon-Sat 08:30 to 20:30, closed Sun
Cantinone già Schiavi, the Bottegon to locals, has been a Schiavi family enoteca on Fondamenta Nani opposite the Squero di San Trovaso since the nineteenth century, with five hundred labels behind the bar and a cicchetti counter that the gallery district fills at lunch.
Tip: Stand at the bar or take the canal edge; there are no tables. Closes at 20:30 sharp so this is an early late night rather than a true after dark stop.