€€€€Wine bar
Vino Vero is canal-side natural-wine room on the locals' cannaregio aperitivo strip, full of venetians at 19:00 and almost no tourists who haven't been told.
TipCanal-side outside seating fills up by 19:00 in summer. Ask for the orange-wine flight from the Friulian section.
€€€€Coffee roaster
Torrefazione Cannaregio on Fondamenta degli Ormesini is the 1930-founded roastery, the only on-site coffee roaster in the historic centre, still using.
TipThe Miscela del Ghetto, created for the Jewish ghetto's 500th anniversary, is the blend to take home. Closed Sundays.
€€€€Italian
Cantinone Gia Schiavi in Venice's Dorsoduro is the De Rossi family bacaro since 1944 at Ponte San Trovaso, taccole crostino eaten standing on the bridge.
TipEat your crostini standing on the bridge; the bar inside is tiny. Closed Sunday afternoons. The taccole crostino is the move.
€€€€Coffee roaster
Caffe del Doge near Rialto in Venice's San Polo is the SCA-trained specialty roaster with 14 espresso varieties, originally founded in 1952 and revived.
TipThe Doge Rosso 100% Arabica is the house blend; ask for a single-origin filter from the rotating list. Bags retail €15 for 250g.
€€€€Wine bar
Enoteca Mascareta in Castello is the late-running enoteca run by Mauro Lorenzon, one of the rare 02:00 closes in Venice, with cicchetti and the daily.
OrderCicchetti, cold plates, cheese boards
TipOpens 19:00. Runs to 02:00. Walk-in. Ask Mauro for a wine flight rather than a single glass.
€€€€Cocktail bar
Experimental Cocktail Club in Il Palazzo Experimental in Dorsoduro is the late-running modern cocktail bar, open to 02:00 on Friday and Saturday.
OrderBar snacks from Adriatica
TipClosed Tuesdays and Wednesdays. The Fri-Sat 02:00 close is rare for Venice. Seasonal menu refreshes June each year.
€€€€Tasting menu
CoVino is twelve seats, no signage and a daily-changing five-course slow food presidia tasting menu most tourists never find off calle del pestrin.
Tip12 seats total. Email a week ahead for booking. Set five-course menu only at dinner.
€€€€Italian
Osteria al Squero in Venice's Dorsoduro sits on a rio bench across from the Squero di San Trovaso gondola yard, spritz at €3.50 and cicchetti €2.50.
TipSit on the canal-side bench facing the gondola workshop. Spritz €3.50, cicchetti €2.50.
€€€€Italian
Vini da Gigio is lazzari family trattoria on calle stua in cannaregio with a 1,200-label cellar that locals book first and tourists rarely find.
TipClosed Mondays and Tuesdays. Book a week ahead. The wine cellar is the reason; ask Laura Lazzari for pairings.
€€€€Cocktail bar
Il Mercante is speakeasy-style cocktail bar near the frari with seasonal themed menus, hidden behind the day-cafe caffe dei frari that few visitors look past.
TipResy bookings. The seasonal menu refresh runs four times a year; the spice-trade-themed pours are the move.
€€€€Brunch
Caffe del Doge near Rialto in San Polo is the SCA-trained specialty coffee bar with 14 espresso varieties and a quiet morning brunch room before the tourists.
OrderSingle-origin filter, V60, cornetto
TipOpen from 07:00; before 09:00 is workspace-quiet. Ask for the day's filter from the rotating origins.
€€€€ItalianSanta Croce
Osteria La Zucca in Venice's Santa Croce is the 35-seat canal-side room that built its reputation on a vegetable-forward Venetian carte, with a handful.
OrderPumpkin and ricotta flan, vegetable lasagna, the daily vegetable side board.
TipBook a week ahead by phone. Closed Sundays. The canal-side tables fit only 12 covers; ask specifically when you book.
€€€€Italian
Al Timon on Fondamenta degli Ormesini in Cannaregio is the canal-side late-night bacaro, with a moored wooden barge for outdoor seating and grilled meat.
OrderCicchetti, grilled meat skewers
TipThe moored barge in the canal is the seat to claim. Grilled meat skewers and wine carafes run later than most bacari.
€€€€Italian
Osteria Anice Stellato (Italian) in Venice: Book a canal-side terrace table in summer. Closed Mondays. Bigoli in salsa and marinated anchovies are the moves.
TipBook a canal-side terrace table in summer. Closed Mondays. Bigoli in salsa and marinated anchovies are the moves.
€€€€Brunch
Pasticceria Rosa Salva on Calle Fiubera in San Marco serves the 150-year-old Venetian pastry brunch with baba and cornetti at the marble counter.
OrderBaba al rum, cappuccino, cornetto
TipClosed Sundays at this branch; the Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo branch opens Sundays with more seats.
€€€€Brunch
Torrefazione Cannaregio on Fondamenta degli Ormesini is the 1930-founded roastery with morning pastries and the Miscela del Ghetto espresso.
OrderCafe Remer espresso, cornetto, pizzetta
TipClosed Sundays. The Miscela del Ghetto blend takeaway bag is the souvenir; espresso at the counter €1.20.
€€€€ItalianSanta Croce
Osteria La Zucca in Venice's Santa Croce is the 35-seat canal-side room with a vegetable-forward Venetian carte and a handful of meat plates, since the 1980s.
OrderPumpkin and ricotta flan, vegetable lasagna, the seasonal side board.
TipClosed Sundays. Book the canal-side tables (12 covers) specifically when you reserve.
€€€€Modern Venetian SeafoodCannaregio
Osteria Anice Stellato on Fondamenta de la Sensa in Venice's Cannaregio is the canal-side modern Venetian room with outdoor tables on the rio in summer.
OrderBigoli in salsa, marinated anchovies, the daily ravioli.
TipClosed Mondays. Book outdoor terrace through their email or the listing site.
€€€€ItalianSan Polo
Cantina Do Spade in San Polo near Rialto is one of the oldest bacari in Venice, with a stand-up cicchetti counter and a small sit-down room for the bigger.
OrderSarde in saor at the counter, then a primo of bigoli al ragu di pesce in the dining room.
TipCombines bacaro counter and table service. Book the dining room for groups of three plus; walk-in works for the bar.
€€€€Brewery
Il Santo Bevitore in Venice's Cannaregio, opened 2005, is the city's longest-running craft beer pub with 21 rotating draft lines, a canal-side terrace.
TipOpen daily from late afternoon. The 21 taps rotate every few weeks; ask for the Italian craft pour to skip the imports. Canal-side seats fill from 18:30.
€€€€Italian
Il Santo Bevitore on Cannaregio is the craft beer pub with 21 taps and pub plates to 02:00, the canonical late-night Venetian craft beer room.
OrderPub plates and craft beer
TipWalk-in. Tap list rotates weekly. The Italian-only flight is the move.
€€€€ItalianSan Polo
Trattoria alla Madonna in Venice near the Rialto is the 1954-founded room with a turnover that fills 200 seats twice a day, the canonical Venetian fish.
OrderSarde in saor, spaghetti vongole, fegato alla veneziana.
TipWalk-in only. Arrive at 12:00 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner. Closed Wednesdays. Two waves through the dining room every service.
€€€€Brunch
Bistrot de Venise near San Marco runs the only Renaissance-recipes lunch carte in Venice, with 14th-century Anonimo Veneziano dishes for a fascinating brunch.
OrderRenaissance saor of sole, medieval risi e bisi
TipThe historic-tasting carte needs 48 hours' notice. Lunch service runs 12:00-15:00.
€€€€ItalianSan Polo
Trattoria alla Madonna near Rialto in San Polo is the 1954 lunchroom with 200 seats that turn twice a day, the canonical Venetian fish trattoria.
OrderSarde in saor, spaghetti vongole, fegato alla veneziana.
TipWalk-in only. Arrive 12:00 for lunch or 19:30 for dinner. Closed Wednesdays.
€€€€Modern Venetian, Canal-sideSan Polo
Osteria Bancogiro on Campo San Giacometto in San Polo at the foot of Rialto is the Grand Canal terrace bistro with a downstairs bacaro and a dining room.
OrderSarde in saor at the bacaro counter, then ravioli with crab and ricotta upstairs on the canal.
TipLower-floor cicchetti are walk-in. Book the upstairs dining room with Grand Canal table a week ahead. Closed Mondays.
€€€€Brunch
Pasticceria Marchini Time on Campo San Luca near Rialto is the patisserie-cafe for a Venetian brunch of brioche, tramezzini and a cappuccino at the counter.
OrderBrioche col cremor, tramezzini, espresso
TipThe lunch-time tramezzini turn out fresh from 11:00. Stand at the counter to skip the table surcharge.
€€€€Brunch
Harry's Bar on Calle Vallaresso serves the canonical Cipriani-style brunch with Bellini, carpaccio and risotto, the historic-bar lunch since 1931 near San.
OrderBellini, beef carpaccio, risotto alla primavera
TipThe downstairs bar takes walk-ins and works for a Bellini at €22. The upstairs dining room needs a booking through OpenTable.
€€€€ItalianCannaregio
Trattoria Bar Pontini on Rio Terra San Leonardo in Cannaregio is the neighbourhood lunchroom locals fill at noon, the canonical no-bookings Venetian set.
OrderSpaghetti al nero di seppia, risotto al radicchio in autumn, the daily fritto misto.
TipWalk-in only. Lunchtime sets at €14 (primo + secondo + acqua) run Monday to Friday.
€€€€Coffee roaster
Caffe Florian on Piazza San Marco roasts its own house blend, the one used at the 1720 cafe, with retail bags sold in the gift shop next to the historic.
TipThe retail-bag espresso is significantly cheaper than sitting in the rooms. Florian's house blend runs €18 for 250g.
€€€€Coffee roaster
Girani in Venice's Dorsoduro is the small specialty-coffee roaster off Campo San Barnaba, supplying espresso to several of the city's third-wave bars.
TipRetail only at the small shop on Calle Lunga San Barnaba; the espresso is roasted in nearby Mestre but blended in Dorsoduro.
€€€€Coffee roaster
Goppion Caffe Cannaregio along Strada Nova is the bar outpost of the Goppion roasting family (Treviso, since 1948), pouring their Dolce, Nativo.
TipSit outside on Strada Nova for people-watching; the Nativo organic blend is the bag to take home, retail under €10 for 250g.
€€€€Coffee roaster
Caffe Lavena on Piazza San Marco roasts its own house blend, the one served in the 1750 cafe, with whole-bean retail at the counter for takeaway.
TipStanding at the bar for an espresso costs roughly €1.80; the takeaway blend bag is the better-value memento.
€€€€Brewery
Birre da Tutto il Mondo o Quasi on Fondamenta degli Ormesini in Venice's Cannaregio is the tiny European bottle-shop bar with a thoughtful fridge of craft.
TipWalk-in. Bottles to drink in or take away; the fridge stock is hand-picked weekly. Ask for the trappist or saison selection.
€€€€Italian
Trattoria Bar Pontini is cannaregio neighbourhood lunchroom locals fill at noon, with no english menu and a €14 weekday set lunch under most tourist radars.
TipWalk-in only. Set lunch weekdays only. Arrive 12:30 for the best seating.
€€€€Brunch
Caffe Florian on Piazza San Marco serves the canonical Venetian breakfast in its 1720 rooms, with hot chocolate and brioche under the Procuratie Nuove arches.
OrderHot chocolate, brioche, espresso under the loggia
TipStanding at the counter cuts the price by two-thirds. Sit-down brunch with orchestra runs roughly €50 per person.
€€€€Brewery
Birra Venezia is the craft brewery founded in 2007 to revive the city's 19th-century brewing heritage, pouring at partner bars across Venice with no public.
TipNo own-brand taproom in the historic centre. The lager is widely poured at Cannaregio bacari; ask for Birra Venezia by name.
€€€€Brunch
Majer on Campo Santa Margherita in Dorsoduro is the modern bakery branch with morning brioche, panini and cornetti, the Dorsoduro university quarter's brunch.
OrderPizzetta veneziana, panini, cappuccino
TipOpen daily from 06:30. Outdoor benches on the campo give free seating; the indoor tables incur a small surcharge.
€€€€Italian
Dal Moro's Fresh Pasta To Go in Venice's Castello is the takeaway pasta counter open to 22:00, the rare cheap-and-fast late dinner near San Marco when other.
OrderFresh pasta in a box
TipWalk-in. Spaghetti carbonara and squid ink with vongole are the moves. €7 to 10 per box.
€€€€Wine bar
Bacaro Jazz near the Rialto Bridge in San Marco is the late-running jazz bar open to 02:00 with cicchetti, the canonical post-midnight wine room in San Marco.
OrderCicchetti and tapas
TipWalk-in. Tonight's jazz set is on the chalkboard at the door. Touristy but reliably late.
€€€€Brewery
The Irish Pub Venezia in Cannaregio is the late-running pub with a mixed Irish and craft tap list, one of the city's longer-hours rooms with Guinness.
TipWalk-in. Late close (02:00) makes it a viable post-bacaro stop. The Italian craft selection is rotating.