Karim's has served Mughlai kebabs and curries in Gali Kababian by Jama Masjid in Old Delhi since 1913, cooking from recipes passed down through generations.
OrderThe mutton burra, then mutton qorma with sheermal to mop up the gravy.
TipThe lane is narrow and busiest in the evening; the kitchen runs from 09:00 until 01:00, so a late lunch is the calm window.
Al Jawahar faces Gate 1 of Jama Masjid on Matia Mahal Road in Old Delhi, a Mughlai room known for mutton qorma, badam pasanda and yeasted khameeri roti.
OrderThe badam pasanda in almond gravy, or mutton qorma with khameeri roti.
TipIt stays open until midnight; during Ramzan the Matia Mahal lane outside fills with haleem pots and kebab grills after sunset.
Aslam Chicken grills butter chicken and seekh kebabs on charcoal in Bazaar Matia Mahal by Jama Masjid, Delhi, staying open past 00:00 most nights of the week.
OrderButter chicken with a chicken seekh kebab and rumali roti.
TipThe butter chicken here is charcoal-grilled chicken tikka swimming in butter and cream, served in a tasla, not a tomato gravy.
Qureshi Kabab Corner skewers seekh kebabs in Delhi across from Jama Masjid's Gate 1, one of the counters that keeps the lane fed after evening prayers thin.
OrderMutton seekh kebab rolled with onions and green chutney.
TipThe grill starts at 17:00 and runs until 00:30, so it works for a late supper after the Jama Masjid lanes.
Haji Shabrati Nihari Wale has cooked only nihari since 1957 in a lane behind Chitli Qabar in Old Delhi, open for two short windows in the morning and evening.
OrderA plate of nihari with khameeri roti, as early as you can.
TipExpect a queue outside at both sittings: it serves from 06:00 to 10:00 and again from 18:00, with khamiri roti on the side.
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