A thin paprika-and-beef soup with cubed potatoes, onion, caraway and a knob of bacon fat to start it, ladled from a kettle. Hungary's civic dish, the thing the rest of the world miscalls goulash.

Gulyás is the herdsmen's soup of the Hungarian Great Plain, named after the gulyás (cattle drover). The paprika version dates to the late 19th century when Szeged paprika industrialised. The thick-stew goulash known abroad is a Habsburg court adaptation; in Budapest gulyás is always a soup, not a stew.

4 editor picks for Gulyás in Budapest, ranked by editorial score. All Budapest signature dishes · Gulyás across every city.