Gulyás
Photo: Lily15 · CC BY-SA 3.0

A thin paprika-and-beef soup with cubed potatoes, onion, caraway and a knob of bacon fat to start it, ladled from a kettle. Hungary's civic dish, the thing the rest of the world miscalls goulash.

Gulyás is the herdsmen's soup of the Hungarian Great Plain, named after the gulyás (cattle drover). The paprika version dates to the late 19th century when Szeged paprika industrialised. The thick-stew goulash known abroad is a Habsburg court adaptation; in Budapest gulyás is always a soup, not a stew.

4 editor picks for Gulyás in Budapest, ranked by editorial score. All Budapest signature dishes · Gulyás across every city.

Hungarikum Bisztró ★ 4.5

$$Traditional HungarianLipotvaros

Hungarikum Bisztro on Steindl Imre near Parliament cooks the canonical Hungarian classics, with gulyás, chicken paprikash and stuffed cabbage in a tiny.

OrderThe chicken paprikash with house nokedli and cucumber salad.

TipOnline reservation only; the room is small and books out for both lunch and dinner.

Kispiac Bisztró ★ 4.5

$$Traditional HungarianLipotvaros

Kispiac Bisztro next to the Hold utca market in the 5th district is a six-table Hungarian room cooking veal liver, pork belly and roast duck right.

OrderThe breaded veal liver with mashed potato and cucumber salad.

TipSix tables, lunch Mon to Sat noon to 22:00; book at least two days ahead.

Gettó Gulyás ★ 4.4

$$Traditional HungarianErzsebetvaros

Getto Gulyas on Wesselenyi in the Jewish Quarter cooks 14 varieties of Hungarian stews and goulashes alongside Jewish-Hungarian classics, Budapest.

OrderThe rooster pörkölt with nokedli; the Jewish egg paste as a starter.

TipTiny room, no walk-ins after 19:00; reserve a day ahead Booking recommended for weekends.

Menza Étterem ★ 4.1

$$Modern HungarianTerezvaros

Menza on Liszt Ferenc ter is a retro-70s Budapest bistro just off Andrassy boulevard, cooking modern takes on the Hungarian canteen canon at a steady.

OrderThe Hortobagyi palacsinta, savoury crepes stuffed with veal stew under sour cream.

TipOpen 11:00-23:00 daily; the kitchen runs 11:30-22:30 and the terrace fills first.

Learn to cook it, or eat it with a guide

Gulyás makes more sense with someone from Budapest explaining it. These are the classes and tours we have checked, with booking links.

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