A whipped cream-cheese spread shaped like a barrel bung, dusted with paprika and eaten with pretzels or dark bread. A wine-country snack the apfelwein taverns adopted as their own.

Spundekäs comes from the Rheinhessen wine villages across the river, where cellar masters whipped fresh cheese with butter and paprika into a shape recalling the Spund, the bung of a wine barrel. Frankfurt's taverns and festival stands absorbed it decades ago as a partner for both Riesling and Ebbelwoi, and it now sits beside Handkäs on menus like Apfelwein Wagner's as the milder, richer of the city's two cheese rituals. At the Rheingauer Weinmarkt on the Fressgass it is practically the official food.

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