€€€€Japanese Yakitori11EWed-Sat 19:30-23:00; Sun 12:00-21:00; closed Mon-Tue
Le Rigmarole in Paris pairs Robert Compagnon's binchotan yakitori grill with Jessica Yang's hand-rolled pasta. A nightly tasting menu only, no a la carte.
OrderTrust the kaiseki-style yakitori order; ask for the pasta as an extra course.
TipOne seating at 19:30 and one at 21:30. Book six weeks out for weekends, four for a Tuesday.
Septime's seafood little sister, Clamato in Paris runs no-reservation oysters, ceviche and grilled fish from 19:00. Walk-in only; queue forms by 18:45.
OrderHalf a dozen Gillardeau oysters, the hake of the day, and a plate of lardo on toast.
TipArrive at 18:45 for the first seating or after 21:30 for the second. No bookings ever.
Yves Camdeborde's Le Comptoir du Relais in Paris helped invent the term bistronomie in the 1990s and still serves the dining-room version every weeknight.
OrderThe pâté en croûte for two and whatever offal main is on the chalkboard.
TipLunch and weekend service runs walk-in; dinner Mon-Fri needs a booking six weeks out.
Le Bon Georges in Paris's 9e cooks farmer-named meat and a tarte tatin worth ordering before the main: the kitchen prep includes a 12-hour rest on the apples.
OrderCôte de bœuf for two from a named Limousin farm, tarte tatin with crème fraîche.
TipThe wine list is small but well-chosen; ask the waiter rather than the sommelier.
Racines in Paris's Passage des Panoramas pours an Italian-leaning natural-wine list and serves hand-rolled pasta from Simone Tondo. Twelve tables, all dinner.
OrderWhatever filled pasta is on, a steak with rocket, the panna cotta.
TipThe Passage des Panoramas closes its gates at night; ring the bell to be let through.
€€€€French Bistro7EMon-Thu 12:00-14:30 19:30-22:30, Fri 12:00-14:30 19:30-23:00, Sat 12:30-15:00, Sun 12:30-15:00 19:30-22:30
Le Cinq Mars is the kind of Paris room a gallerist takes a writer to: red banquettes, chalkboard, an endive salad with Roquefort and walnuts that has not.
OrderThe endive Roquefort salad and pot-au-feu in winter; vitello tonnato in summer.
TipLunch is open to walk-ins; dinner books a week ahead, two weeks for a weekend.
Learn classic French cooking techniques at a 6-hour cooking class in the Latin Quarter of Paris, visiting a local open air market to forage for fresh produce to turn i...
Learn classic French cooking techniques at a 5-hour cooking class in the Latin Quarter of Paris, using fresh produce from the local market to turn into a memorable 3-c...