€€€€French bistroGambetta
Bouillant took over the old Café de la Paix on Rue Léon Gambetta in Lille, seventies furniture and orange paint over a sharp, unnostalgic market card.
OrderBoudin with marinated apples and almond granola.
TipWine by the glass starts at 4 euros and a 50cl pitcher runs 13 euros, which is why the room stays full late.
€€€€French bistroLille-Centre
Bleu Canard is a long narrow canteen on Rue Pierre Mauroy in Lille, floral wallpaper and moleskine banquettes around Ryo Nakamura's market cooking.
OrderCrispy pork breast with white peach.
TipChildren get adapted portions and something to draw on, which is rare in a room cooking at this level.
€€€€French bistroSaint-Michel
Café Bellot on Rue Jeanne d'Arc in Lille is a neighbourhood bar and bistro in one, chalkboard plates at lunch and natural wine into the small hours.
OrderPotato croquettes stuffed with smoked trout, in trout roe cream.
TipLunch runs on reservation only. A Burgundy red starts around 7 euros a glass.
€€€€French bistroLille-Centre
Brigand on Rue de l'Hôpital Militaire in Lille is blond wood and brick, a bistro of comfort cooking and natural wine run by a chef and sommelier pair.
OrderMussels in haddock cream, from the evening sharing plates.
TipLunch is a weekly menu at 25 to 30 euros. Evenings switch to plates built for sharing.
€€€€French bistroMoulins
Café Augustin on Rue de Valenciennes in Lille is retro-chic, a long counter and wooden banquettes serving simple lunches and generous evening plates.
OrderDuck breast with sautéed courgette and blackberry pickles.
TipWeekdays only. Mains sit between 14 and 17 euros, and the room hosts poetry nights.
€€€€French bistroBois-Blancs
Les Sales Mômes on Quai de l'Ouest in Lille keeps more than 800 board games beside a kitchen of burgers, boards and pastries, on the Deûle waterfront.
OrderAn aperitif board, ordered while you learn a new game.
TipLunch service is 12:00 to 14:00 from Tuesday to Saturday, and sharing plates start again at 17:00.
€€€€French bistroGambetta
Les Casseroles Lilloises hangs hundreds of pans from its ceiling on Rue Solférino in Lille, cooking bourguignon, duck parmentier and tête de veau.
OrderTête de veau with gribiche, if you want the bistro classic done straight.
TipThe kitchen runs non-stop from 11:45, which is rare in Lille.
€€€€French bistroBois-Blancs
Péniche Archimède is a moored barge on the Deûle by the Esplanade in Lille, serving generous bistro plates with the water on both sides of the room.
OrderWhatever the day's plate is, eaten on deck.
TipSunday opens at 10:45, earlier than anywhere else on this list.