Seafood€€golden-triangleTue-Sat 10:00-15:00, 18:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-15:00
Oyster bar on Cours du Chapeau-Rouge near Place de la Comedie, serving Arcachon and Belon oysters by the dozen with local white wines on terrace.
Why locals love it: Cours du Chapeau Rouge is famous for the Grand Theatre, less so for this raucous oyster terrace.
Tip: Belon oysters from Marennes-Oleron are €45 a dozen; the Arcachons are the locals' choice at half.
Cafe€€bacalanMon-Fri 12:00-14:00
Associative canteen inside a 2,200-square-meter former industrial hangar in Bacalan, serving daily homemade lunches with locally brewed beers and concerts.
Why locals love it: A converted garage in Bacalan that doubles as a community canteen, missed even by locals from the centre.
Tip: Lunch Tuesday through Friday only, served by community volunteers; cash preferred.
Seafood€€capucins
Why locals love it: An octopus and grilled-seafood counter inside Capucins that pulls only mid-morning locals.
Tip: Open Tuesday through Sunday lunch only; the pulpo a la gallega is the dish to ask.
Cafe€€saint-pierre
Le Grand Bar Castan (Saint Pierre): An 1898 listed grotto bar by the Garonne that locals walk past every day without realising the interior.
Why locals love it: An 1898 listed grotto bar by the Garonne that locals walk past every day without realising the interior.
Tip: Visit at 18:00 for the half-empty room and a chance to photograph the grotto interior properly.
Cocktail bar€€saint-pierreTue-Wed 19:00-00:00, Thu-Sat 19:00-02:00
Saint-Pierre cocktail bar on Rue des Bahutiers with house cocktails, DJ sets, Spanish tapas, filet americain and gougeres; opens at 19:00 Tuesday to Saturday.
Why locals love it: A bartender-led cocktail collective hidden on Rue des Bahutiers in Saint-Pierre that opens only after 19:00 and stays under the radar of most weekend visitors.
Tip: Tuesday and Wednesday nights are the calmest windows; the DJ programme picks up Thursday to Saturday and the room turns over fast.
Cafe€€saint-pierreMon-Fri 09:00-17:00, Sat-Sun 09:00-18:00
Swedish coffee shop opened 2019 by Arvid and Margaux on Rue des Trois-Conils, serving cinnamon rolls, smorgas sandwiches and raggmunk pancakes.
Why locals love it: Locals know the Nordic brunch and kanelbullar on Rue des Trois-Conils; visitors usually miss it.
Tip: Book by Wednesday for weekend brunch and ask for the front-window banquette.