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Zhajiangmian is thick wheat noodles under a dark sauce of diced pork fried in yellow soybean paste and sweet bean sauce, served with a ring of crunchy shredded vegetables to toss through.
Where to eat it: 3 restaurants across 1 city.

Beijing's version of zhajiangmian is ranked among the Ten Great Noodles of China. The sauce combines yellow soybean paste with tianmianjiang, plenty of white spring onion and diced pork, and the bowl is surrounded by cucumber, radish, bean sprouts and soybeans. Accounts of its origin differ: some point to Shandong, and one story has Empress Dowager Cixi bringing a noodle cook to the capital after the court fled to Xi'an in 1900. Fortune Long has served it since 1994.
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Common allergens: Gluten, Soy
Tip from the editors. Keep the heat low and be patient: soybean paste scorches fast, and the sauce is ready only when oil shimmers at its edges.
No. 69 Fangzhuanchang Zhajiangmian holds a Bib Gourmand for one dish, chewy noodles in a deep soybean pork sauce, in a hutong near Nanluoguxiang in Beijing.
OrderOrder the zhajiangmian, the only dish on the menu, and add pickled garlic and cumin chilli sauce.
TipDiners queue from opening to closing for the single dish, so go outside the lunchtime rush.
Fortune Long on East Xinglong Street in Beijing has served zhajiangmian since 1994, over three floors, with two caldrons of soybean sauce made fresh each day.
TryZhajiangmian with house-made noodles
TipIt is always jam-packed, so avoid peak mealtimes; Michelin also picks the fried pork balls and the blanched ox tripe in sesame sauce.
Mingyuan Restaurant, a no-frills hutong room on Beizongbu Hutong in Beijing, serves Beijing home cooking, from fried meatballs to old-Beijing zhajiangmian.
TryZhajiangmian and fried meatballs
TipIt has tables for ten or more, so it suits a group; add the fermented mung bean milk, a classic Beijing snack, to the fried starch sausage.
More cities are in research. Want zhajiangmian (noodles with fried bean sauce) covered somewhere specific? Tell us where you want to eat.