Kagizen Yoshifusa ★ 4.6
An 18th-century wagashi maker on Shijo-dori with a tatami tea room behind the storefront. Tsukimi rabbit jellies and the most quoted kuzukiri in Kyoto.
Signature drink: Kuzukiri with kuromitsu
Cold bracken-starch mochi dusted in kinako and drizzled with kuromitsu, the city's summer wagashi sold cup-by-cup at Nishiki Market and tea houses.
Where to eat it: 2 restaurants across 1 city.
Warabi-mochi has roots in Heian-era Kyoto, originally made from wild-foraged warabi (bracken fern) starch, expensive enough that Emperor Daigo (897-930) was said to favour it. The modern Nishiki Market form, sold cup-by-cup dusted in kinako roasted soybean and drizzled with kuromitsu syrup, codified in the Showa era. Counter stands at Nishiki Market still press fresh warabi-mochi by the cup; the form is now Kyoto's most-photographed summer snack.
Tip from the editors. Real warabi starch from Kyoto wagashi suppliers is grey-tinted and gives the most chew; potato starch works fine but is whiter and less elastic.
An 18th-century wagashi maker on Shijo-dori with a tatami tea room behind the storefront. Tsukimi rabbit jellies and the most quoted kuzukiri in Kyoto.
Signature drink: Kuzukiri with kuromitsu
A wagashi shinise on Kawaramachi north of Imadegawa in Kyoto, famed for its mame-mochi: salted black soybeans pressed into sweet azuki paste-filled mochi.
Try: Mame mochi
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